Anecdotes for Animals (Hippo Edition)

I have been on more than my fair share of game drives. On each of these game drives, the guides share tidbits of information on the wildlife. I soak this up. Combine that with the fact that I have read and researched about all of the animals that inhabit Botswana and what you're left with is a person that could practically lead the wilderness tours herself. Yes, I am a "Botswana animals trivia nerd" and I'm not afraid to say it. This ridiculous and somewhat excessive knowledge has made me an asset on game drives, especially for those patrons who sit in the back of the vehicles and can't hear the guide properly, and hopefully in quiz nights of the future.

Last weekend, I went on a mini trip up to the Okavango Delta. We spent time on the water and surveying a number of small islands. During a nature walk, our guide told me a new and particularly entertaining anecdote about hippos that I am going to add to my repertoire, in the event that I do decide to become a guide myself... it goes like this:

"A long long time ago, when God was creating all the animals, he made the hippopotamus as an animal of the forests and plains. But the hippo was greedy and, finding plenty of food all around him and no enemies to worry about, he grew fatter and fatter and fatter. The hippo became so fat that he had great difficulty waddling down to the river for his daily drink. This caused the hippo to become envious of all the fishes that swam in the cool water and he wanted to be among them.

The hippo then went to God and asked if he could leave the land to bask in the glory of the water. God, upon hearing the request, said that the fish were very dear and that he was worried the hippo would take its great eating habits and begin to eat the fish until there wouldn't be any left. Although the hippo promised not to eat any of the fish, God untrustingly declared that the hippo must continue living on the lands.

After some time of watching the poor hippo baking in the hot hot sun, his heart softened and God went to the hippo and told him that he would allow him to live in the water if the hippo could prove that he wasn't eating the fish. The hippo then declared that he would lie in the cool of the water by day and then, each night, he would return to the land and scatter his dung on the earth with his tail so that God could see everything that the hippo had eaten and see for himself that there were no fish bones. God believed this would be proof enough that the hippo was eating only grass found on the river banks and allowed the hippo to relax in the waters during all of its days.

So, this is the way, to this very day, that the hippopotamus comes out of the water to scatter its dung as it looks to the heavens and says 'Look God, no fishes!'"

Okavango Delta Mini-Vacation

If you travel by bus for 17 hours northwest of the desert-land where I live, this is what you see...

These are the types of animals you can view...

And this is the kind of antics you can get up to...

This is exactly what we did. Four days on the water (watching out for hippos and "hunting" crocodiles), camping, going on nature walks, drinking and braai'ing, and having a ridiculously good time. The Okavango Delta rocks my socks! I love Peace Corps and my fellow PCVs. Simply the best.

The "Big 5" And The "Village 4"

One of the really exciting things about my family's visit was that we were able to see Africa's "Big 5". They were chosen for a number of factors, most notably because they are among the most dangerous and thrilling animals to see. Africa's Big 5 are as follows (in pictures taken from our trip):

Cape Buffalo

Rhinoceros

Lion

Elephant

Leopard













Seeing Africa's Big 5 is one of the most exhilarating things you can do. Some people spend a lifetime trying to see them but fall short. We were fortunate enough to see the Big 5 many times over! (Yes, we saw three leopards, four rhinos, a half dozen lions, and countless buffalos and elephants!) It was absolutely remarkable and something that I can say with utmost certainty will be with each member of my family for the rest of our lives.

I mentioned that seeing these majestic creatures is rare and yet many people back home think these are the animals I see every day since, after all, I live in Africa. I want to introduce you all now to the animals I do actually see with frequency. They are the "Village 4" and require no formal introduction...

  

Not gonna lie, I am quite grateful that these are the creatures I see as I walk through my village because it offers some sort of comfort that I'm not being tracked by a lion or fear being trampled by an elephant. Plus it makes the fact that I did actually see the Big 5 all the more special. So three cheers to the Village 4 for being so humorous and the Big 5 for their glory.

African Adventures: Family Edition (In Pictures)

My Simple Joys

In light of my post yesterday, which aptly proclaimed my lack of happiness, I thought I should also show the other side. For me, it's very simple. My essence of happiness in Botswana are Bofelo, Bokena, and Bolt. Time spent with them are among my happiest moments here.

I just spent almost an hour hugging the three of them. I think they could tell that I have been upset because they literally grabbed on and didn't let go until I had finished shedding some tears and a smile crept back on my face. Bless them and their great big hearts.

Baby Blessings!!!

A few hours ago I heard scrambling outside and a dog crying. Now, dog cries are not really unusual here but, for some reason, the sound concerned me ("maternal instincts" perhaps) and I had the thought in the back of my mind that "my" dog, Puppy, might be having her babies (her pregnant tummy had really ballooned over the last few days but I wasn't sure when her "due date" was so I didn't necessarily have cause for concern but that was where my mind wandered). I looked out the window to see what was going on and I saw Puppy trying to get to something behind a pile of bins and buckets and poles that are by the work shed on my compound. She looked frantic so I grabbed my flip flops and ran out there. As I approached the rubbish, I heard the faint sound of baby puppies. (Holy smokes, could I be right?!) Climbing over paint cans and a variety of other things, I saw a pile of newborns. I started moving everything out of the way and Puppy went running to their side. A few of them looked as though they weren't breathing and I reached for them, half expecting Puppy to get upset and growl at me but not knowing what else to do. She didn't get upset, in fact she looked really relieved I was there. I started cleaning them off and gently stroking them, hoping they would start to make some sort of sound to indicate they were alive, as a few of the others were doing. One by one they started making noises. I cleared some more things out of the way and Puppy nestled next to them and the puppies began moving towards her to feed. I found more puppies underneath things and lodged between cans - they were everywhere. I counted eight in total.

After being sure that they were all collected, alive, and feeding, I went to check on mama dog. She was starting to settle down from the fright and began to lick her babies and also my hand as I gave her and her babies pets on the head. No one was around and I wasn't sure what to do but everyone seemed okay so I was feeling pretty good at this point. After some time, I began to make them a shelter in a safer place on the compound in between the shed and the house. I moved a little dog house in and covered the ground with blankets and sheets. (Bye bye spare set of sheets!) I brought in a dish of water and two huge handfuls of dog treats for Puppy to munch on. When everything was ready, I put the eight little ones into a basket and carried them carefully into the new shelter area, mama dog right behind me. The whole clan nestled into their new home and seemed very comfortable. Phew!


Mama and babies are now happy and resting and oh so precious. Everyone seems to have made it! I have been going outside to check on them every half hour or so... Will I continue running back and forth to check on them for the next who knows how long? Yes, yes I probably will. Am I okay with that? ABSOLUTELY! I am such a proud mama right now! :)

Rest In Peace Dex

Dex, named after the mischievous little monkey from Night at the Museum, passed away on December 1, 2011. Dex was only six months old. The cause of death is unknown but she was found in her home compound surrounded by her family. She was known best by those who loved her as a goofy little thing, the runt of the family, and sweet beyond comparison. She loved sitting on the couch, eating popcorn, and playing with her brother Bolt. Her happiest days were when she could go on adventures to the bus stop with her lekgoa. She is survived by her father, mother, and siblings. She will be missed by all. Rest in peace Dex.

Skeletor: Creature from Hades

I have told you all before about the creepily large (six inches or more) spiders that adorn my walls here in Botswana. They are fast, they are flat, they are hairy, they are a wee be scary looking, but most importantly they are harmless. So ga go na mathata, right? Right! Well, my friends and fellow followers, they are not the only creature that lurks our homesteads. No siree. The creature I'm about to tell you about is real and trolling the sandy paths of Botswana...

What you see before you is a "camel spider." We have not-so-affectionately started calling him SKELETOR due to its villainous appearance and satan-like ways! There is no way around it, this guy is terrifying! I was told about the "devil's pet" by the guy that I replaced from Bots 8 and then I had the horrifying story validated by my village mate, Mary, from Bots 9. I didn't believe it. I couldn't believe it. How could something like this actually exist?! So what did I do? I did research. Oh boy do I wish I hadn't because what I learned was worse than I could have imagined... The skeletor is this: a half spider and half scorpion that has a running speed of approximately 10mph, "screaming" when it reaches that maximum speed, and literally munches (not bites) its prey (which are said to be small rodents). They come in all sizes, from just a few inches long to larger than a hand (like the one pictured here). I kid you not, these creatures from the underworld are goons! 

Fortunately, to date, I have not had one come into my house (knock on wood) but I have encountered them in various other locations, specifically at Mary's house which is only five doors down. The site of them careening across the room usually sends us screaming and running in all directions. If you can hear me scream all the way in America, I am probably being gobbled up by a skeletor. Please send help.

Khama Rhino Sanctuary

Last weekend a group of fellow Bots 10'ers and I took a mini-vacation to the Khama Rhino Sanctuary in the northern part of Botswana, approximately 25km passed Serowe. It was quite the adventure from the start (with storms on the horizon and a slew of transportation issues) but it proved to be well worth it!

The Khama Rhino Sanctuary is exactly like it sounds - an oasis where you can truly escape and feel immersed in all that is quintessentially Africa. The chalets and campsites are nestled in the bush and animals literally come up to your door. We made friends with a red-billed hornbill that we affectionately called Zazu and we sat watch for Naughty, a hand-fed black rhino who ventures around to welcome visitors. Although torrential downpours and roaring thunder and lightening threatened to ruin our trip, they only added to our excitement as the storms cleared for both of our game drives (we did two) and livened up our evenings. It was one of my favorite weekends in Botswana so far.

It has taken me an entire week to upload photos but I am happy to provide you with this slide show of some of the highlights from our game drives! Enjoy!

An Introduction: Curtis

About two weeks ago, I introduced you all to Bernard. I am sad to report that he turned out to be a short-term visitor. He has eaten the last of his spider meals, packed his teeny tiny bag, and left my lizard hostel. His tenancy, however, has been replaced by a longer-term guest. And, since he appears to like it here and will be sticking around, I would like to formally introduce you to my new friend Curtis.

Curtis is a cute little lizard friend (about 4" long and skinnier than Bernard - he's had less spider snacks I assume). He checked in two days ago and seems to be taking to the Peace Corps lifestyle quite well. He freely wanders around my house, going from room-to-room, and hangs out with me while I read a book or watch a show. Although he's quite shy, he seems to be a courteous house guest. So "welcome Curtis", I hope you enjoy your stay!

The Return of the Creepy Crawlies

Confession time: I obsessively clean my house. There is no other way to describe it. I am constantly finding dust or dirt that can be swept up or realigning or realphabetizing something (yes, my books are in alphabetical order and my clothes line up according to the rainbow, don't judge). I do this for a number of reasons. First, I like order. Second, because I have a lot of time on my hands so I occupy it accordingly. Lastly, and probably most importantly, because I don't want bugs in my house. (Have you heard about camel spiders?! They are real... they freak me out... and they are in Botswana!)

The bugs in Botswana are back! It's getting hot outside and they are seeking refuge from the elements... in my house. Despite my best efforts, the little buggers (hehe) are making their way into my personal space. It started out with a few cute little spiders, which I calmly transported to their home environment outdoors. Then it was some sort of funky mutant bug that I swept out my front door. That was followed by something that I can't describe that I scared so badly that it ran out through a vent in my living room. All of this I was okay with. I knew there would be bugs (a lot of them) and I knew I wouldn't have ever seen bugs like them before and I had prepared myself for the day they would return. But nothing could have prepared me for the battle I woke up to yesterday morning... ANTS!

I now have a little ant hole coming up through the tiles in my bedroom. They are the little itty bitty teeny tiny ants but man almighty are there a lot of them. And they are not going down without a fight. And, I'm sorry to say, I am not being nice. It's war and I'm Doom'ing them. So far it's working! I think their dead bodies may be blocking the hole or a messenger ant has alerted the rest that it's me or them (and my contract has another 20 months on it so guess who's gonna have to go)... There were significantly less today than yesterday and I'm optimistic that if I keep at it, spraying them with doom and bleaching/scrubbing the floors, that there will be no chance of survival.

While I'm sure this is the first of many battles with the local creepy crawlies, I'm hoping my efforts will not be in vain and that it will be a lesson to all the future ants, spiders, roaches, and icky things that attempt to enter: you will not survive in my house, stay in yours!

My Three Besties in Kumakwane

These are the three little ones that visit me every day. They have turned into my besties in Kumakwane. When they come over every afternoon, I scrub their little hands, I feed them a snack (because it breaks my heart to see them going through the garbage scavenging for food), and then we play. We usually have a ruckus game of frisbee, we play catch, and we jump rope. If it's not too late, we come inside and color, look at pictures, and have a dance party (to Amadou & Mariam, a duo from Mali). Outside of their hungry tummies, they are three of the happiest, sweetest, and most joyous kids I have ever met. They are very precious. I'm lucky to call them friends.

Magwinya

Magwinya, meaning Fat Cake, is a Setswana food that is reminiscent of an American donut. Basically, it’s a piece of fried dough about the size of your fist. It has been decided that it may not be good for your waistline but it sure is good for your soul. As a Bots 10 group, we eat a lot of magwinya. There are two very important magwinyas in my life right now and I want to share them with you.

The first is an award-winning magwinya. Yes, I did say award-winning. Last week each of the language groups (we are broken into small sections of trainees for language classes) were taxed with cooking a Setswana dish to be judged by our medical officer and a panel of judges. The aim of the competition was to make sure that we could cook at least six different things on our own using local ingredients when we get to site to ensure we don’t starve (each recipe will go in a cookbook, along with other recipes, to be distributed after swearing-in). My group decided to put an American spin on the traditional magwinya and it paid off! Our variation included sautéing apples and bananas in cinnamon and then stuffing the magwinya with the fruit, frying it as usual, then covering the magwinya in cinnamon and brown sugar. Can you say delicious?! It most certainly was and the judges agreed! After tasting quiche, chili, breakfast sandwiches, madombi le supa (dumplings with vegetables), seswaa (beef) tacos, and our creation, the judges picked us to win! I think this goes to show that what is good for the soul really is what is most important!

The second is a kitten. I know what you’re thinking – Tija, how is a kitten also a donut?! Well, friends, I am going to tell you. The story is this: the Bots 10 group found a sick kitten that had been abandoned by its mom and it looked like it may die within a couple of days. We decided to feed the kitten and give it some love and comfort so that its final few days would be comfortable.  We fed it little pieces of food and sat with it on our laps while it meowed and meowed and meowed uncontrollably. (The poor little thing!) Well, that sad little kitten is doing much better! It has put on weight, takes itself in and out of the training room to say hi to us, and has even taken on the monkeys a few times! This kitten has become sort of a mascot for the Bots 10 group. We named him Magwinya. It started out as a joke because it was anything but a fat cake but the name stuck and the rest is history…

Wildlife Protection

As you are all well aware, animal rights is a big deal to me. I refuse to use products that aren't cruelty free and I do my part for animal conservation. I believe that I should be the voice for the voiceless and I take my role seriously. That is why I am so very happy to share this story with you...

While in Ghanzi for shadowing, I learned that environmental (and thus wildlife) protection is very important in Botswana. There are a number of protected parks and game reserves that play a huge role in tourism and in preserving endangered species - Botswana takes great pride in protected them. Until then, however, I had not learned much about this. I came upon this information primarily because the village is near the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR), which spawned a series of questions from me about the potential for seeing wildlife while I was visiting. They confirmed that an elephant had wandered through the village the proceeding week (wanted an adventure outside Moremi perhaps?) and that lions often get through the fencing around the CKGR and attack cattle (Botswana's main industry). This is the nexus of this post.

When lions get out of the CKGR and attack someone's cattle, the farmers are permitted to shoot the lion. (No matter how you look at it, lions on the loose are dangerous. If the lions are destroying someone's livelihood, they are also crippling. So, despite everything, I understand this.) The turning point in this story is this: if the lion is shot and killed, the farmer is required to contact the Ministry of Wildlife to pick up the carcass. The carcass is then skinned and the hide is prepared to be sold at auction. People from all over the world will then bid on the finished pelt, often going for significant prices. All of the money then goes back into the game reserve. This usually means mending fences, helping to keep the lions and other wildlife inside the park and therefore safe and protected. In some instances, this could even mean helping to bring more endangered species to the park and promote breeding and revitalization. More animals, safer animals, and better game reserves.

In the end, wildlife protection is the driving force behind it all. The animals are very important to the Batswana and they have put systems in place to ensure they thrive. Now that is something I can stand behind and one of the many reasons that the parks in Botswana are known as the most brilliant in the entire world. Go Bots!

Ghanzi - Shadowing

Shadowing is a time when each trainee gets to go and shadow current volunteers in their workplaces, in their communities, and in their daily lives. I went to shadow two volunteers in a town called Ghanzi.

Ghanzi is located on the western part of the country near the Kalahari Game Reserve. It’s a very diverse town with Batswana, San, Afrikaaners, and foreigners everywhere. It has a small town feel, very comfortable, but with a lot of amenities. It is truly a nice place and I immediately liked it.

We spent the first two days at shadowing going to different NGOs  in the area, and talking with them about their work in the community and also going to scheduled meetings (one of which was with the Office of the President to plan a national wellness event and candlight ceremony to honor those with HIV/AIDS and promote healthy living). I had mixed reactions to our meetings that caused me to really reflect on what I want in an NGO placement and what my concerns may be. More specifically, I saw organizations without staff to effectively run programs, inactivity and apparent indifference, and volunteers having to do everything at the office (isn’t this about capacity building?). I also saw amazing organizations with inspired people and heard great success stories. Honestly, it just gave me a lot more to think about in terms of what I want so I could be armed and ready to discuss it with my program director at our upcoming placement interview.

After all these meetings, we also had the opportunity to have some fun. This included shopping for San jewelry and baskets, visiting D’kar (and going to their art exhibit and museum), meeting local friends of current volunteers, and then going to see lions! Seeing lions was a lot of fun and we basically got a private tour of the refuge (thanks to two Bots 9 volunteers who set it up!). In addition to lions, we saw impalas, ostriches, wild dogs, and a variety of really cool birds. (Yes, some bragging about seeing wildlife did ensue when we got back to the training site! Lions! Ah!) We ended the day by meeting up with all the volunteers in the area at the Kalahari Arms (a local lodge) to hear about the individual experiences, meet a few new faces, and eat some delicious food. It seemd, all-in-all, everyone had a ton of fun!

Four days later, at 5 am, we boarded the bus for another hot, sweaty, crowded seven-hour drive back to Kanye.