Published: A Toolkit For Better Life Skills Education

Behold! The very first printed draft of the Adolescent Life Skills Toolkit I put together!

After meeting last week with relevant heads of all Botswana's Ministries and other pertinent stakeholders, it has been confirmed that the final draft of my toolkit will be adopted by the Botswana Government and used to strengthen the country's current national strategy for life skills education! Booyah! Now that's a Peace Corps win!

Rising To The Occasion: Interview Time

Wednesday night, after watching Eat, Pray, Love for the thousandth time since being in Botswana (which I watched in an effort to be inspired and motivated for my interview with Peace Corps Headquarters), I started getting stomach pains. And not your normal stomach pain either. This was absolutely diabolical. Gut-wrenching, shooting pains that made me keel over. As the pain started making me feel like projectile vomit was inevitable, I started making routine rounds to the bathroom. This continued all through the night and well into the morning...

...into the morning of my big on camera interview for Peace Corps' new recruitment and marketing videos. Of course.

In the hours before the interview, I was so exhausted and in so much pain that I couldn't help but cry. Why now? I have been sick only a handful of times since moving to Botswana and, even then, nothing compared to this - the stomach flu. It may very well be the worst of the icky-sicknesses. My body's timing was wretched. But my will-power was going to have to win out this time. It had to.

I somehow managed to rip myself away from my spot next to the toilet bowl long enough to take a shower and put on some makeup (being sure to apply a little extra blush to offset the whiteness in my face). I talked to my mom and my sister one last time on instant messenger and gave myself a pep-talk that included "DO NOT PUKE ON THE INTERVIEWERS" and "you can do this" before collecting my things and making my way (very slowly) towards the combi stop.

Despite waiting for a combi with an open front seat so I could sit by a window, the ride to where we were meeting seemed to drag on. Deep breaths. I arrived about fifteen minutes ahead of schedule - enough time, I reasoned, to make one last dash to the bathroom (in case I became a pukey face again) then to fix my makeup, change my shoes, and be ready to impress. Deep breath.

I was miserable. But I was there.

And, to my surprise, people were complimenting me on how great I looked! It's amazing how much a little makeup, a good outfit, and a fake smile can do!

I sat and meditated while I waited for the communications team from headquarters to arrive. I mentally went over the interview questions they sent a few days prior and I told myself over and over and over again that I could get through this. Deep breaths were my friend and an active mind was my distraction from the shooting pain in my stomach.

Before long, we were making our way to a conference room, where the interview would be held. I made small talk with the communications team, who were two of the most lovely people I have met in a long time. I instantly took a liking to them. So, of course, I over-shared about my stomach flu and they, in turn, shared their mineral water. This proved to be a gift in the hour ahead. As they finished setting up the camera, they told me about the goals for this filming and the ways in which the footage would be used. And then we were off! Lights, camera, ACTION!

I am not entirely sure of everything I said over the course of the next hour and a half but the communications team assured me that I did a great job and that they got a lot of usable material from my interview. The lead interviewer went so far as to say I gave them the exact responses they had hoped for when they set out for Southern Africa. And, to be honest, they seemed genuinely interested in everything I had to share (to the point of continuing the conversation well after the camera stopped rolling).

I had done it. I beat the stomach flu and successfully made it to my interview! (I toppled over shortly after.)

Someone on the Peace Corps staff took pity on my poor aching self and drove me home after the interview. For the next twenty-four hours, all I did was sleep and drink rehydration salts.

Rise to the occasion. Mind over matter. Make it happen. Lessons that played out for this interview - and in life.

A Weekend Away: Savuti Game Reserve

One of the perks of being a pilot is getting to travel and see some beautiful sites. One of the perks of dating a pilot is occasionally getting to tag along. This weekend I got to do just that as we traveled to Savuti Game Reserve, a part of Chobe National Park. (And, yes, before you say anything, this is work for my main squeeze. I'm just happy the very kind clients let me come along this time!)

My skillful boyfriend brought the little Beechcraft airplane down on a dried dirt landing strip in the middle of the bush - fulfilling a classic "TIA moment". From there, we hopped into a safari vehicle for the forty minute ride to the exquisite Ghoha Hills Savuti Lodge, where we would stay for the evening. Along the bumpy sand road, we saw herds of elephants, kudu, and an assortment of other animals. I couldn't wipe the big goofy grin off my face. I was in heaven.

The lodge is nestled up on the hillside amongst the trees, making it one of the most picturesque places I have been. Add to that the fact that it's an eco-friendly lodge and it has my vote for best bush lodge! The rooms are spectacular, with indoor/outdoor rain showers, plush beds, and the most spectacular view to wake up to in the morning. Honestly, I could hardly believe the view as I looked out from the bed of our tent-bungalow window. Amazing! Everywhere I looked was something even more beautiful or exciting (lion tracks by the camp?!). It was one part adventure and another part scenic reverie.

My boyfriend and I spent the hours watching animals come to and from a nearby watering hole, listening to animal calls (leopards, hyenas, and a pel's owl!!), playing board games, sitting by a fire, and reading our books snuggled up together. Without television and internet, it gave us some much-needed quiet time away from the city and an opportunity to relax and reconnect. Getting to see some game and eat delicious food (for free) was a nice added touch. After all, a night like this would normally set you back upwards of $900! Peaceful and serene, totally worth it, but outside of our normal price range. So this was a treat beyond compare. And, at least for him, it's all in a day's work!

After twenty-eight hours of pure bliss, we boarded the plane, avoiding about a dozen elephants hanging out at the end of the runway, and began our journey home to Gaborone. But first we had to make a pitstop in Maun to fill up the plane with fuel. This gave me an opportunity to see elephants wading through water and ducking for shade-cover under a nearby tree from above as we ascended and then to gawk at the glory of the Okavango Delta from thousands of feet up. It was a sight unlike any other. I have to say, the delta is truly impressive and magnificent and I am proud to be living in a place that has maintained such a natural wonder.

In all, this was a remarkable weekend getaway. I got to see my boyfriend in action, take a couple of really fun flights with him from the front seat (a view that is really amazing), see African wildlife, and relax in the beauty of the bush. All with a smile and my favorite guy. How did I get so lucky?

And, In The End, There Were Emotions

I have exactly twenty-two days left in my comfortable little village and only thirteen days left working at my NGO and with the ladies that have become my family in Gabane.

This is an emotional time. 

It just doesn't seem possible that my two years here are up and I am having a hard time wrapping my brain around leaving here. Even though my ticket to America is booked for my home leave and I can see the upcoming date on a calendar, it still doesn't feel real. It is as if my brain has employed a defense mechanism to keep me from feeling the anxiety and heartache of leaving something I love so much. Even if it is just to start something new nearby. I have to consciously remind myself to cherish each moment with the ladies of my NGO, to take the time to do the "secret handshake" with each kid in the pre-school, and to greet each person I meet on the dusty paths around Gabane. In a matter of days it will all be a memory. When I think about how fast two years went, it is overwhelming (even heartbreaking) to think how fast these last few days will likely go.

This is also a time when I am pushing to get projects and things finished but also trying to disconnect from the work in a more meaningful way. This is something I have blogged about a lot - the idea of true sustainable development. Of course, I have things I want to get done and see through here before I go. For example, the house building project is complete but the sanitation component - the pit latrine - is not quite finished yet. Same goes for some aspects of my organizational development project at the NGO. But, at the same time, I need to back away and make sure the ladies can do everything on their own. I need to observe them and support them in their own personal development if the things we have worked so hard on are to be sustainable. And, so far, they are.

I have watched the ladies take ownership of projects and work diligently to get the financial systems in place or to improve the teaching curriculum and our reports. The Board of Governors has finally been elected and they are taking an active role in helping scale up our operation. The members are coming to the office and conducting their own mini trainings and helping the ladies network with local people who can assist them. Local people helping local people to help the local community. This is a huge accomplishment. I have always said that, as a capacity builder and development worker, if I am able to make my job obsolete and unnecessary because the staff and community are able to do it on their own, then I have done my job well. Being able to witness this happening first-hand is bringing me peace and soothing some of the sorrow of leaving as I hesitantly look forward to the end of this chapter.

Saying goodbye is probably one of the hardest things anyone can do. This is a time filled with that - goodbyes to my fellow Bots 10s as they embark on their next adventures (on their own), goodbyes to my village and my work, and goodbyes to a life where I could be anything I wanted on any given day of the week (a farmer, a social worker, a teacher, a consultant, an accountant, a youth leader, an artist, and so on). Goodbyes are made harder when you deeply love all the things you are bidding adieu. And that is where we stand now.

For me, this goodbye is also met with some exciting hellos - to a new life, to a new job, to new challenges, to new faces. There is glory and elation and vitality in moving forward from something achieved and towards the great unknown. It is, after all, how I got to this place in my life that has become so special to me.

I am going to try and take the next twenty-two days to "hug" this world I am in now and shower it with all my love. I want to feel the emotions of it all and embrace them. I want to leave all of who I am right now in the sand of my village and with the people who have helped me grow here so that I can start this next chapter in Botswana anew.

Two Years "In The Field"

Today I went through the 3,031 pictures from my family's visit to Botswana. It was such a remarkable trip - my heart will always smile when I think about it. Besides being one of the best memories of my time here, though, looking back through their pictures allows me to see Botswana through their eyes and reminds me of how unique and wonderful this whole experience is. It's easy to forget how special it is when it becomes your daily life. I have been incredibly blessed to be here.

Two years ago today I set foot in Botswana... And what an incredibly eye-opening, earth-shattering, crazy, beautiful two years it has been.

Water Problems Continue

In America, having potable drinking water and a constant water supply is never a problem. Almost magically, it is there whenever you need it. If you have followed my story, however, then you know this is not the case in Botswana. I have gone months on end without water and have, on occasion, put buckets outside to catch precious rain water. Some of my peers have to walk up to 5km to fill up buckets to carry home because they don't have running water or a water pump nearby. Water is an issue.

Volunteers in Botswana are lucky, though, in that our water has been safe to drink. I have been drinking it straight from the tap for nearly two years and have had no problems at all. That was until recently, when a number of random quality tests were conducted and the water failed to meet US Embassy standards. They advised us that water in my region intended for human consumption should be boiled. Before receiving this statement, I had been having some stomach problems (eww) so I started boiling my water and they ceased. Boiling water is laborious, especially during the heat of summer when all you want is something cold to drink. As of last week, after talking with a health specialist who told me the situation had been cleared up, I have stopped boiling my water. Gratefully, my tummy has not been rattled so I believe she was right and the water is fine now. (After all, the best way to find out is to try it out and my body isn't reacting...) Happy day, right? Wrong. As annoying as it is having to boil water, it pales in comparison to the alternative... no water.

Today the Water Utilities Corporation released the following statement: "The Water Utilities Corporation (WUC) would like to inform residents of Gaborone City and surrounding areas (Mochudi, Gabane, Kumakwane, Mogoditshane, Tlokweng, Lobatse and their surrounding areas) that it is currently experiencing water supply challenges. Due to this, they will experience low pressure to no water at all indefinitely. Residents are advised to wisely use the little available water." INDEFINITELY?! We are going to be without water indefinitely?! To my great dismay (but not to my surprise), this public statement came out AFTER the water cuts arrived in my village, meaning that none of us had the time to prepare. We are already without water and now without means of stocking up. While we all live with water challenges every day, this is incredibly difficult to hear. Although Peace Corps Volunteers hoard water like it's our jobs, there is never enough for our "shorter" week-long outages. It is in these moments when I wish I had a pit latrine because at least then I could go to the bathroom in peace without worrying about using 3L of water to flush... The question then becomes: "What happens to us and to the local communities if the water really is out indefinitely?"

I beg all of you back in America, please cherish every time you turn the faucet on and water comes out and that it is clean water to drink. I will never take those things for granted again.

Extension Granted!

Despite incessant (and inconvenient) water and power outages, hairy spiders, ant hordes, insane temperatures, and thorns in my shoes, I love it here. Yes, I said it, I love Botswana. I have fallen in love with the simple life in the village and with international development work. Although I had a hunch before coming here that this might be the case, there really was no way for me to predict how deep my love would be. And, honestly, my trials at the beginning definitely pointed more towards "enmity" than "love". But this love has grown from frustration and disappointment and perseverance and is likely stronger because of it. It is like your favorite romantic comedy movie - girl wants to find love, girl sets out to find it, girl is angry with and/or hates what is set in front of her (usually a guy, in this case the work), girl fights it, girl feels like all hope is lost, girl has a realization or transformation, girl flirts with the thing she once resented, and finally girl realizes it's the only thing for her. I didn't think this sort of romance happened in real life. But, like many people before me, I have been surprised by the way things turn out. This could very well be the tale of my pursuit and my love of international development work.

But I made it! I saw the light at the end of the tunnel, my heart flickered, and I got a warm fuzzy feeling with every person who learned something from me and with every organization that ran a little smoother. And that is why, with a joyous heart and an excited mind, I announce that my application for extension was granted! I have been given the opportunity to continue pursuing this love and see where the next phase in the journey takes me!

For my extension year ("third year"), I am assuming two roles:

In my first role, I will be working with Project Concern International (PCI). PCI is an international non-governmental organization that currently operates in 16 countries to promote sustainable change and community development. I will be working directly with two projects funded by USAID - one for orphans and vulnerable children and the other for integrated childhood and youth development. In this capacity, I will get the opportunity to oversee and manage high level projects that I am passionate about, work alongside leaders in their field, and also continue doing some field work with PCI's 10 implementing partners across Botswana. 

In my second role, I will be acting as a Peace Corps Volunteer Leader (PCVL). The role of a PCVL is multifaceted and includes: working with Peace Corps staff to assess organizations and villages for successful site development; mitigating issues between staff, volunteers, and host country nationals; assisting with regional support issues; designing and conducting trainings for incoming volunteers; liaising for Peace Corps Botswana, connecting staff with volunteers; and informing current PCVs about available resources to better assist their host country agencies. I am passionate about Peace Corps' mission and believe that every volunteer deserves the best chance to make the most of their service. I am thrilled to have the chance to put my magnanimous experience to work in helping serving volunteers.

I am overwhelmed and excited about the potential for personal growth and the opportunity to continue doing good work at an even greater magnitude in these new roles. To me, it is my perfect placement. I have incredible hopes for this country, its people, and the work Peace Corps is doing. I know these hopes are achievable because, time and again, my dreams in this country have come true. I am honored to have the opportunity to stay here one more year to see that continue to happen.

Ramblings on Change and my Beloved Group

I have been very introspective and reflective these passed few days. As you may remember from my ramblings nearly two years ago, this is part and parcel of a Peace Corps Volunteer's routine - having ample time to just sit with their thoughts. As a general rule, PCVs are deep thinkers and even more passionate planners. This makes us very efficient and diligent workers, able to tackle hard tasks in grassroots development, but has often also provided much anguish in the long hours alone in the village. The time spent by myself, left to ponder my life and my existence and, truly, humanity, used to rattle me to the core. I had things I needed to work through and personal obstacles to overcome. Since then, I have grown to love and appreciate my alone time and can literally sit in silence for long hours reflecting and, albeit to a lesser extent, looking forward. Now I recognize that this time alone is precious. It is something that once was more than I could handle but now seems harder to come by so I am grateful for these passed days. Most of my thoughts come back to my group and our time here...

My group has just over five months left in Botswana. The time has flown by at a rate that I can only refer to as "lightening fast". When I think back to the last minute scramble to throw things in my hiking pack into the wee hours of the morning before I left, it seems like only yesterday. But when I think about how far I have come and everything I have experienced and been through, it seems like a lifetime ago. The girl that stuffed an extra skirt into her pack in lieu of extra face wash hardly exists anymore, at least not in that same way.

We have all changed. Looking at pictures with other members of my group from when we first arrived here, we all laugh and clamor about how young we all look. We have aged. We look a little haggard and rough around the edges now but I think it shows wisdom and courage. We are also a little jaded after all this time dealing with hardship but we are also more aware of ourselves and our capabilities and have maintained the will to try. We are not afraid of failure because we know how much sweeter it is when projects finally work out.

I have watched my group-mates grow in such unique and beautiful ways. For one, that might mean coming out of her shell and becoming strong and independent. For another, that might mean overcoming the ebbs and flows of his service to ultimately feel happy and successful. And, for yet another, that might have meant knowing when to say goodbye and head home to pursue the next big thing in their life. We have all had our own battles to fight and hardship to overcome along the way but we have done it as a group. I have loved watching my friends be transformed into these incredibly inspiring people.

And, on top of this evolution of being, we have had a rockin good time together. From quad biking on the sand dunes in Namibia to kayaking with penguins in South Africa to croc hunting in the Delta, it has been one crazy amazing adventure.

It's hard for me to believe that, before we know it, this time together will be complete. All of these realities will become memories and those extra grey hairs in our head a quiet reminder. I am proud of my group and where we have come and grateful to have shared this adventure with them. It's not every day you feel grounded by both your head and your heart but, for me, that's where I'm at. So a deep breath and a smile for the quest. I intend to relish in these last five months with my group and brace myself for what's next. It's going to be a wild ride!

Anecdotes for Animals (Hippo Edition)

I have been on more than my fair share of game drives. On each of these game drives, the guides share tidbits of information on the wildlife. I soak this up. Combine that with the fact that I have read and researched about all of the animals that inhabit Botswana and what you're left with is a person that could practically lead the wilderness tours herself. Yes, I am a "Botswana animals trivia nerd" and I'm not afraid to say it. This ridiculous and somewhat excessive knowledge has made me an asset on game drives, especially for those patrons who sit in the back of the vehicles and can't hear the guide properly, and hopefully in quiz nights of the future.

Last weekend, I went on a mini trip up to the Okavango Delta. We spent time on the water and surveying a number of small islands. During a nature walk, our guide told me a new and particularly entertaining anecdote about hippos that I am going to add to my repertoire, in the event that I do decide to become a guide myself... it goes like this:

"A long long time ago, when God was creating all the animals, he made the hippopotamus as an animal of the forests and plains. But the hippo was greedy and, finding plenty of food all around him and no enemies to worry about, he grew fatter and fatter and fatter. The hippo became so fat that he had great difficulty waddling down to the river for his daily drink. This caused the hippo to become envious of all the fishes that swam in the cool water and he wanted to be among them.

The hippo then went to God and asked if he could leave the land to bask in the glory of the water. God, upon hearing the request, said that the fish were very dear and that he was worried the hippo would take its great eating habits and begin to eat the fish until there wouldn't be any left. Although the hippo promised not to eat any of the fish, God untrustingly declared that the hippo must continue living on the lands.

After some time of watching the poor hippo baking in the hot hot sun, his heart softened and God went to the hippo and told him that he would allow him to live in the water if the hippo could prove that he wasn't eating the fish. The hippo then declared that he would lie in the cool of the water by day and then, each night, he would return to the land and scatter his dung on the earth with his tail so that God could see everything that the hippo had eaten and see for himself that there were no fish bones. God believed this would be proof enough that the hippo was eating only grass found on the river banks and allowed the hippo to relax in the waters during all of its days.

So, this is the way, to this very day, that the hippopotamus comes out of the water to scatter its dung as it looks to the heavens and says 'Look God, no fishes!'"

Okavango Delta Mini-Vacation

If you travel by bus for 17 hours northwest of the desert-land where I live, this is what you see...

These are the types of animals you can view...

And this is the kind of antics you can get up to...

This is exactly what we did. Four days on the water (watching out for hippos and "hunting" crocodiles), camping, going on nature walks, drinking and braai'ing, and having a ridiculously good time. The Okavango Delta rocks my socks! I love Peace Corps and my fellow PCVs. Simply the best.

What's In A Name: "Posh Corps"

My friend and fellow Bots 10 wrote a piece for Peace Corps Botswana's latest newsletter that she entitled "What's In A Name". It resonated with me because of its astuteness and clarity in a way that I thought needed to be shared.

To see her post, click here: What's in a Name

For easier access, however, her post is as follows:

"Before joining Peace Corps many of us believed the brochures, expecting mud huts and dinner by moonlight. Those of us invited to Botswana were told we were lucky to be in the ‘posh corps.’ Even from my homestay experience I recognized that many families opt for a satellite dish for their TV before they install running water in the home. I remember thinking why deny yourself when your neighbor enjoys the modern conveniences of running water and electricity, watching soap operas every single night and blasting the radio on Saturday mornings? The question is: does the availability of these amenities make the experience any less challenging or any less of a “Peace Corps experience?”

Some Volunteers live with the beloved “air-con” in a relatively modern apartment or house, but what about those living the ‘old’ Peace Corps experience in a traditional round house and making the trek to the pit latrine at all hours. There are even some Volunteers living without electricity entirely, often in the context of a village with only a few compounds connected to power. Some opted for these living situations and others simply acquiesced. Are they any more of a Volunteer because of their deviation from modern conveniences and willingness to adapt? Even if they live without them day-to-day, they may occasionally enjoy an episode of 30 Rock on their Mac, powered by the juice borrowed from the local clinic earlier that day, all the while eating their rice and tomato sauce dinner by candlelight. Or they may travel to another Volunteer’s site for the weekend to take a nice bath and charge up all electronic devices. I have both electricity and running water with a flush toilet in my house. I have often wished I had neither simply because the wiring is so terrible and the water supply so unreliable that I’d rather learn to live without than have to live with unannounced outages. When water was out for seven days, believe me, the flush toilet was a curse!

Whether you have these amenities or not, you may have the friend who has the latrine and have spent the holiday in a teeny village bordering the bush without electricity, inevitably learning what it is like to live in these varying conditions, adapting to the circumstances or learning to live without. One Volunteer put it to me like this: “When you go visit your Volunteer friends you immediately learn three things about their place: how to flush the toilet, how to get water, and how to bath yourself.” These few words could not be more true. Who knew that there could be so much versatility to your lifestyle within the course of a month? The key to this revelation is the ability to adapt. There is so much variation in the conveniences and difficulties in each village and at each person’s site so whether first-hand, vicariously or temporarily we all experience these conditions.

The reality is that we adapt whether we have these conveniences or not and that has been the common Peace Corps experience through 50 years of service. While the accessibility to things like running water define our daily life in terms of stocking water and washing dishes, it is surprising how quickly those behaviors become mindlessly routine, even normal. One thing that I’ve learned in my service is that your Peace Corps experience becomes less defined by how well you fulfill some 50-year-old stereotype and more about how you find a contentment both in your home and in your community, with the people you work with and the people you socialize with. When you do, all of those seeming amenities fade into the periphery. The truth it may be easier to live without water than it is to find a capable and willing counterpart for a project. It’s may be easier to live without electricity than to get accustomed to the stares on combi rides and the incessant “lekgoa!” resounding from some indiscriminate location.  

While Botswana is an anomaly in its relative wealth to other Peace Corps countries, the notion of being flexible remains, applicable around the globe and across the board. It is this flexibility and learning to make a home in the unfamiliar territory and a friend in the sea of strangers that brings together a common experience for all Volunteers at all levels of development." --Virginia Fall

Water Outages: A Fact of Life

In America, we often take having constant access to water for granted. Something I learned very early on after moving to Botswana is that water is a precious commodity. We often go for a few days without water and this may stretch to a week or more. In preparation, most Peace Corps Volunteers store water - we never throw out a bottle because water could be kept there and we each have a few buckets that are used solely for stored water. It is a way of life that we have adjusted to. "Ga go na mathata", as we would say, "no problem".

This week has been particularly hot for the time of year. Temperatures have been about 40C/104F. This means that water is even more valued. Unfortunately for us, the water in my village has been out since Monday evening. We were told that the outage is due to a pipe bursting in the main water line in Mogoditshane (our neighboring village, between Gabane and Gaborone). There is no telling when the pipe will be fixed and water restored. The government is set to bring big tanks to Gabane for people to queue at to get water. To me, this seems like a fruitless endeavor since the village has nearly 13,000 people and a queue of that magnitude is sure to have more than a few snafus.

So what is a lowly Peace Corps Volunteer to do in a time like this? Cower in fear? Shrivel up in thirst? Pack a bag and get the heck outta dodge? No way Jose! Seeing the storm clouds roll in last night, I grabbed all the buckets in my house and stuck them in my yard to catch the rain water! I now have roughly 20L of water at my disposal! Peace Corps ingenuity win? I think so!

A Truly Uplifting Weekend

I am eternally thankful for weekends like the one I just had. It contained all of the elements of something truly special: "family", new friends, good food, comfort, gratitude, smiling children, fun, and more. It was the sort of jam-packed weekend that left everyone that was a part of it feeling uplifted and inspired. It goes without saying that it was exactly what I needed after a series of hard weeks. I would like to share with you all the highlights (you'll have to bear with me because there's a lot to talk about):

"Farewell and Safe Travels" Dinner!

We have all made great friends with a man from Zimbabwe named Tendai. He has been "our taxi guy" around Gaborone for many Peace Corps groups and has proven to be an honest and wonderful man. We have always been able to rely on him when we need a ride someplace and when we need a warm smile and a friend. He is one of the most genuine people I have ever met.

After nearly a decade of living in Botswana, he and his family are moving back home to Zimbabwe. We are so sad to see him go but are also excited for him and his family to be going home. (Peace Corps Volunteers, more than most, understand how wonderful it is to go home.) We wanted to send Tendai and his family off with a bit of the kindness that has been shown to us so a few of us decided to take them out for dinner. We gave them the choice and they decided to have Indian food at Chutney in Gaborone. They had never eaten it before and were extremely excited to try. We ordered an assortment of paneer and masala dishes and gorged on delicious naan. It was a feast! It was also a very special evening for all of us. It gave us time to talk more about our lives and to say thank you to our friend. Tendai, Monica, and Ashley, you will be so missed in Botswana. Your warmth has touched us all. I know I speak for all of us PCVs when I say that we are looking forward to the day when we can come and visit you and see your home. 17 months and counting!

Holiday Parties for Orphans!

I had the opportunity to go to two parties for orphans and vulnerable children (OVC) this weekend. Both were amazing, if for no other reason than to see the huge smiles on the kids' faces! Precious!

The first one was in my village and was hosted by my NGO. The day started bright and early with copping vegetables for the meal that would be served to the OVC, caregivers, and guests and then preparing the facility for the event. About an hour before the party was scheduled to start, children started lining up outside the NGO - their excitement was impenetrable. By 9:30am, hundred of children were playing on the toys, laughing, and enjoying each other's company. (It has been a long time since the kids have been at the NGO for services so they were beyond excited to have equipment to play on and time to just play and be kids.) The day included music and a dance party, a cultural exhibition, lunch, and gift giving. Gifts for the OVC included things like clothes and toiletries. The guest of honor for the event, who helped distribute the toys, was Miss Universe Botswana 2011. She is a remarkable woman, who genuinely wants to help counsel the OVC and work with the youth in Kumakwane. She took time to play games with the kids and to speak with caregivers and community members.

The other OVC party that I was able to attend was for the Botswana Red Cross Society in Moshupa, a nearby village. This holiday party very much like the previous in that it involved a lot of preparation in terms of cooking and that the event made a whole lot of kids ridiculously happy! I would estimate that this party had over fifty children in attendance, all running around playing on the jungle gym, hoolah hooping, and kicking a football around. The children played for hours, working up an appetite for the late afternoon lunch that was prepared by the Red Cross staff volunteers. During lunch, presentations were given on the history of Red Cross, OVC programming, and the way forward. Songs and skits were also done by youth from UCCSA and then gifts were given out to the children. Like the party at my NGO, gifts for the kids included clothing and toiletries. The Minister of Parliament and the Kgosi (chief) came to support the event and to spend some time with the children.

Care Packages Galore!

Nothing warms a Peace Corps Volunteer's heart quite like a care package from home! I was lucky enough to get TWO over the weekend! Both contained presents for the Kums Kids, including toys, stuffed animals, coloring books, stickers, and Hanukkah cards/blessings. I was literally moved to tears by the generosity and love shown in both of these packages. All I can say is THANK YOU SO MUCH for all of the wonderful presents, snacks, and goodies! I am SO GRATEFUL!

Kind Words and a Great Reminder!

After coming to my village for the first time, a friend and fellow Bots 10 emailed me. Her words touched me and really brought me back to what matters here. I have gotten so caught up in my primary project's success that everything else was somewhat devalued, despite my knowing it is important too. Among the things she said to me that reminded me of the validity and significance of my "after-school program" with the Kums Kids were:

“…What I wanted to say was that I was really affected by the relationships you have with those children in your village who come over to your house. I was very touched to see how comfortably and intimately you interacted with them. I think that type of interaction, those types of relationships, are so amazing, and it's something that I've struggled with a lot here…The way you effortlessly engaged and directed those children, that was really nice. I like that you can have children over to your house, and that boundaries do work… your situation there is wonderful. It was refreshing to see that you invite them into your life, that you've provided them with activities. In knowing what goes on in the emotional life of most PCVs, I think what you're doing is the epitome of loving-kindness towards those children.

My specific reason for telling this to you is that I've heard/understand that you're going through a rough patch right now in your service. All I really want you to know is that the relationships you've cultivated with those children is what I thinking PC is all about. And so, obviously your issues with your work will negatively affect your feelings of self-efficacy, but you're independently doing exactly what is right.  You're having real relationships with real people. You have no idea what an effect you're having on those children, but I can assure it is wholly positive. Don't forget that on the bad days. That's something that's real, that's the type of things you should take away with you when you go…”

Her words were the reminder I needed. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your kind words and encouragement.

Meeting RPCVs!

A few weeks ago, I received an email from a professor from the University of North Carolina at Greensboro who had done his Peace Corps service in Botswana in 1990-91. He was coming to Botswana for the first time since he finished his service and wanted to meet Peace Corps Volunteers in the area. He would be traveling with two friends, one who was a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer from Rwanda and the other who is working for USAID in Pretoria. Of course I wanted to meet them and a number of other PCVs in the area joined me in the excitement.

A group of PCVs came to my house on Friday afternoon in hopes of meeting them, unfortunately a bout of stomach sickness kept them from meeting up with us then. We were disappointed, obviously, but understood - stomach issues are not to be messed with around here! The following morning, however, we received a phone call that all were well again and that they had a few hours before they had to head back to Pretoria and we could meet! Much of the group from the day before had gone back to their villages, but Kristen and I had ventured to Moshupa for the Red Cross Society's OVC party so we were able to coordinate! 

Over a delicious Pakistani feast made by our friend Azmat,  Kristen, Virginia, and I got the opportunity to meet with Stephen (RPCV Botswana), Andy (RPCV Rwanda), and Joe (USAID). It was one of the most uplifting and exciting things that has happened to us (and we all agreed that it was among our favorite experiences since coming to Botswana). Hearing their stories, seeing photographs, and getting advice about service and life after was really inspiring. Not only that, they all looked back on their Peace Corps experience fondly and believed it to be something that positively impacted their lives. They were kind and thoughtful and just meeting them made all three of us feel more settled about our time here. I feel very blessed for having that time with them.

And, of course, FRIENDS!

Even more than usual, my Bots 10 family has gone above and beyond to be there for me (and each other). I am so grateful for them. They have reached out to help me with issues at my site, to show their support, to have a little fun, and to plan even more great adventures. I love you all more than words can say. "Blame it on Bots 10"... because we really are that awesome.

Nothing beats time spent with good friends... and the Kgosi of Moshupa. Ridiculous.

World AIDS Day 2011

Today is World AIDS Day. This is an important day around the world and one that is especially important to Peace Corps Volunteers in Botswana. Botswana has the second highest HIV/AIDS infection rate in the world, with an estimated one-third of the population being infected. As such, each of us has been brought to this country to work on HIV/AIDS issues at a grassroots level in an effort to get to "zero new infections" by 2016. It is an issue that we have become passionate about and one that plagues our thoughts and motivates our actions. For me, that means working most directly with orphans and vulnerable children (OVC) and in helping design programs to work with this demographic.

To learn more about HIV/AIDS in Botswana or the work that PCVs are doing, please click on the following links:

World AIDS Day in Botswana

HIV/AIDS in Botswana

A Message from the Botswana Network on Ethics, Law, and HIV/AIDS (BONELA) on Why Botswana Will NOT Achieve its Vision 2016 Mission

Save the Children: World AIDS Day

Botswana PCV Ross Szabo: What the Struggle Against Obesity and HIV/AIDS Have In Common

Peace Corps, Volunteering, and World AIDS Day

What is World AIDS Day?

Skeletor: Creature from Hades

I have told you all before about the creepily large (six inches or more) spiders that adorn my walls here in Botswana. They are fast, they are flat, they are hairy, they are a wee be scary looking, but most importantly they are harmless. So ga go na mathata, right? Right! Well, my friends and fellow followers, they are not the only creature that lurks our homesteads. No siree. The creature I'm about to tell you about is real and trolling the sandy paths of Botswana...

What you see before you is a "camel spider." We have not-so-affectionately started calling him SKELETOR due to its villainous appearance and satan-like ways! There is no way around it, this guy is terrifying! I was told about the "devil's pet" by the guy that I replaced from Bots 8 and then I had the horrifying story validated by my village mate, Mary, from Bots 9. I didn't believe it. I couldn't believe it. How could something like this actually exist?! So what did I do? I did research. Oh boy do I wish I hadn't because what I learned was worse than I could have imagined... The skeletor is this: a half spider and half scorpion that has a running speed of approximately 10mph, "screaming" when it reaches that maximum speed, and literally munches (not bites) its prey (which are said to be small rodents). They come in all sizes, from just a few inches long to larger than a hand (like the one pictured here). I kid you not, these creatures from the underworld are goons! 

Fortunately, to date, I have not had one come into my house (knock on wood) but I have encountered them in various other locations, specifically at Mary's house which is only five doors down. The site of them careening across the room usually sends us screaming and running in all directions. If you can hear me scream all the way in America, I am probably being gobbled up by a skeletor. Please send help.

Khama Rhino Sanctuary

Last weekend a group of fellow Bots 10'ers and I took a mini-vacation to the Khama Rhino Sanctuary in the northern part of Botswana, approximately 25km passed Serowe. It was quite the adventure from the start (with storms on the horizon and a slew of transportation issues) but it proved to be well worth it!

The Khama Rhino Sanctuary is exactly like it sounds - an oasis where you can truly escape and feel immersed in all that is quintessentially Africa. The chalets and campsites are nestled in the bush and animals literally come up to your door. We made friends with a red-billed hornbill that we affectionately called Zazu and we sat watch for Naughty, a hand-fed black rhino who ventures around to welcome visitors. Although torrential downpours and roaring thunder and lightening threatened to ruin our trip, they only added to our excitement as the storms cleared for both of our game drives (we did two) and livened up our evenings. It was one of my favorite weekends in Botswana so far.

It has taken me an entire week to upload photos but I am happy to provide you with this slide show of some of the highlights from our game drives! Enjoy!

Transportation in Botswana

I have been asked to share a bit more about the intricacies of my every day life. I must oblige. Some things, I'm sure, will seem strange and different (as they did to me too when I first arrived), while others will seem so mundane and normal that you might be surprised I'm living in Africa. I think it will be a pretty interesting cultural exchange with people from home so that you can learn a bit more about life here! So I am going to start to post information about the simple things that make up my life. First up: transportation!

As a Peace Corps Volunteer, you are not allowed to drive during service (or ride a bicycle without a helmet). Doing so is grounds for administrative separation. Yikes! As such, PCVs have to utilize public transportation to get around the country. Here are some of the many ways we get around:

Walking! We walk everywhere! It is the easiest and cheapest mode of transportation available. Plus, many of us live in rural villages where no form of motorized transportation exists. For example, my village is tiny. It takes about twenty minutes to walk from end-to-end and very few roads exist. (It's kind of like a nature walk every time I go anywhere! Que fun!) And, in truth, this is one way we stay somewhat active. Host country nationals, however, do not prefer this mode of transportation. (Although, as you can see, walking inside the village can be quite the chore for host country nationals!)

Hitchhiking! This is not officially condoned by Peace Corps but it is often the only way to get into or out of certain places around the country. It's also proven to be a really great way to get to know people. In the times that I have had to "hike" (as it's called in Botswana), I have met some of the most interesting people. I have met kgosis (chiefs) and people that used to work for Peace Corps and government officials and more! I've also found it to be a cheap alternative for getting around. Although you're supposed to pay the same fee as for the buses, if you chat up the driver and/or ask "Do I owe you anything for this ride?" instead of "How much do I owe you?" then you usually get the ride for free! Woot woot! On a Peace Corps budget that is a serious win!

Buses! This is the main way that Peace Corps Volunteers get between villages and across the country. There are bus stops along the three main roads in the country. (These three roads are the only way to get from point-to-point. Smaller sub-roads connect to these main roads at certain places but are often going only to a specific village or taper off into an earthen road. This means that you often have to travel well out of the way to get to a connection point or to reach your destination.) The buses are usually very very packed. People stand in the center aisle and, on more than one occasion, I've had people or their things sitting on me during the ride. In the summertime, the buses may reach excrutiating temperatures, as Batswana don't like to travel with windows open for fear of catching "flu" (yes, "flu", not "the flu" or "a cold"). I no longer think anything of traveling for 6 or more hours each way to go someplace for the weekend. Having a sweaty butt is kind of normal and no one even notices if your dress is stuck to you when you get off. It's just the way it goes now. For me, specifically, getting back to my village from the capital city (where I do my grocery shopping, banking, etc. since my village is too small to have these conveniences) can often be a chore. My village is a speck on the map (actually, it's not even on the map since it's so tiny) so buses don't always like to stop there. I have to bat my lekgoa eyelashes if the Kumakwane bus isn't at the bus rank! But, have no fear, I have yet to not make it home! :)

Combis! Combis essentially are what would happen if a mini-bus and a van had a baby. They are how you get across larger villages and towns or, if you're lucky, to a neighboring village. They are cheap (equivalent to about US 50 cents), convenient, and super fast! I kid you not, the drivers are crazy! They drive very fast and often weave in and out of cars. The reason the drivers go so fast is because they get to keep everything they make during the day above and beyond the fee they have to pay the owner of the combi. This is usually about BWP 200. That means that if they make BWP 500 during the day that they pay the owner the BWP 200 fee and they get to keep 300. It's a pretty good deal for them, a great deal for us, and it ensures we get where we need to go with expediency!

Taxis! I only take taxis when I am in Gaborone, the capital city, and I only take them if I need to get to the bus rank before the combis start running (for instance when I went to Namibia) or if I'm out with other PCVs and the combis have stopped running for the evening (which is around dark). Taxis, in general, are much more expensive and therefore a less desirable option for the Peace Corps Volunteer. But we do have a taxi driver that we call specifically when we need a ride. His name is Tendai. He's from Zimbabwe and one of the nicest people I have met since coming to Botswana. If you're ever in the area and need someone to fetch you from the airport or grab you from Linga Langa after pizza and a beer, let me know and I'll send you his number!

And my favorite... Donkey carts! After the initial shock of seeing this mode of transport when I first arrived in country, the trusty donkey cart has earned its way into my heart! The donkey cart is common among people in small villages or people who travel to "the lands". The lands are basically farming plots where people raise cattle and grow crops. The donkey cart is a cheap and convenient way for villagers to get around and to carry their harvest (or wood for the fire to warm water and cook) from the lands to their homes. It is my goal to take a ride on a donkey cart (and then feed the donkeys apples) at some point during my service!

And that concludes today's lesson on life in Botswana. I hope you've learned a thing or two about what transportation is like for Peace Corps Volunteers!