Educating Towards A Better Tomorrow

In 2006, Botswana's Ministry of Education and Skills Development (MoESD) set about developing a National Life Skills Framework that would guide the creation and implementation of the Life Skills program. The underlying belief inherent in this program is that children are the most important national resources and that they will become the leaders of tomorrow. The Life Skills program, therefore, aims to help children develop the knowledge, attitudes, and skills necessary to avoid risky behaviors, overcome challenges, and live positive and health lives. What they developed was a strong framework that outlines learning outcomes and indicators in a number of subject areas that are meant to guide the Life Skills curriculum. What they did not create was a guideline for how to teach the material. This is where I come in.

In my role with PCI, I am entrusted with putting together a Life Skills Toolkit. The vision for the project is to create a guidebook to assist life skills facilitators with imparting knowledge onto learners by providing them with clear information and, essentially, a packet of hands-on activities and lesson plans aligned to the framework. It is the hope of PCI that this toolkit will enhance the Life Skills program and make it even more effective. As such, they intend to publish it and roll it out on a national level. This is a huge project to be involved with.

As such, I have been conducting focus groups with Batswana and have called on the experience of my colleagues who have been working within the youth development sector in Botswana - they are the experts in the field and can offer insight into best practices within the Life Skills program. It is my belief that the most rich product will be one that incorporates real-world experience with technical theory.

I am happy to report that development of the toolkit is moving along smoothly and we already have 170 pages stocked with descriptions of topics and key terms, as well as lesson plans on topics ranging from how to effectively facilitate sessions for children and young adults to compulsory content like: sexual and reproductive health, STIs, and HIV/AIDS; life skills (communication, critical thinking, goal setting, decision making, managing stress/grief/pressures, etc); values; health and safety; human rights; and finally how to monitor and evaluate your program. By November, the toolkit should be ready to go to print and hopefully there will be a national campaign by the first of the new year.

Here's hoping that 2014 brings about a more complete Life Skills program as a result of this project.

Finishing Up: Gabane Community Home-Based Care

Yesterday was a truly epic day. It was a day when I got to witness the end-game of my work at Gabane Community Home-Based Care (GCHBC). And, what makes it even more memorable and exciting, is that I got to do it in the form of an amazing event, alongside all the people who were part of those efforts from the community at large. My heart will be overflowing with joy, pride, and gratitude when I think about this day for the rest of my life. What was supposed to be a small event became something so much more.

A few days ago, the coordinator from GCHBC called to let me know there was going to be an event to hand over and unveil a brand new playground at the center. This had been a last-minute project that I pursued, mere weeks before I finished my time in Gabane and went for home leave. Although PCVs are encouraged not to start anything new at the end of their service, I believe that when opportunities present themselves it is important to grab them, so we made the effort. Getting the playground would offer a safe place for the children to hang out and have fun, as our previous one was dilapidated and in great need of repair. Two days before I left, I received word that our proposal was accepted and representatives from a local bank branch would be sponsoring the playground. Over the past two months, this effort came to fruition. And yesterday, I got to see the labor of love and watch the children's eyes light up when they saw their new play area.

I was so overwhelmed with love when I arrived at the center. I had been gone for two months and hadn't seen my Botswana family in as long. Hugs were the first thing on the agenda. But, not long after our familial embraces, I was sneaking around the event tents, media, and special guests, towards the new playground. I couldn't wait until the unveiling. I had to see it now!

When I saw the new playground, I could hardly believe my eyes! The new playground has swings, a climbing wall, teeter-totters, a bridge, slides, and an in-ground trampoline! And it was all new! And beautiful! I nearly burst into tears imagining the kids seeing it - how was I going to react when that time actually came?! I mean, who actually has an in-ground trampoline at their preschool center? It seemed impossible. This was just too magnificent to behold.

I went to run over to the ladies to gush about the playground but was intercepted by the donor, who I immediately hugged. She laughed and laughed because my excitement and my gratitude was so palpable. I hadn't seen the plans for the playground before I left so it was a complete surprise to me. It exceeded all of my hopes and expectations. I knew the children's reaction would be even more amazing.

Finally, after a few words with the donor, I went in search of the ladies from the center. As I rounded the corner of the event tent, I saw it. There, parked in front of me, was the combi we had written a proposal for many months prior! SURPRISE!

No one knew it was coming. FNB Foundation, who we were awarded the combi through, had talked to the bank branch weeks before and asked to surprise us with the combi at the handing over ceremony. And surprised we were! I honestly couldn't believe my eyes! Everyone must have been waiting for my reaction because, as I squealed with joy and shock, I turned around to see all the staff and donors laughing and smiling. IT WAS HERE!!! THE COMBI WAS HERE!!! And it, too, was beautiful!!! Goodbye old combi! Goodbye spending 47% of our funds on vehicle repairs! HELLLLOOOOOO riding in personalized style! WE HAVE A BRAND NEW COMBI! The combi was the last out-standing award I was waiting for to complete my time at Gabane Community Home-Based Care. I needn't wait any longer!

And all of this happened BEFORE the actual event and handing over ceremony!

The event was well attended. Our Kgosi and Minister of Parliament were there, as were the heads of the donor agencies and our entire board. The community came out in hordes. Every major village organization was represented - the clinic, health post, support group, school heads, and the other NGO in the village. Everyone who had been a part of my service in Gabane was there. And, over and above, the media came out to photograph and televise the event. It was truly spectacular. I couldn't have asked for a better group of people to be in attendance. The represented everyone that was part of time in Gabane.

On a very personal note, during his speech, the board chairperson made a very special "thank you" address to me for my efforts with the center. His words were kind beyond compare. He then asked me to stand. Everyone applauded me and the children came rushing over and hugged me. I was overwhelmed to the point that tears welled up in my eyes. To me, the only reason I was able to achieve so much was because I had a great team alongside me. They worked so hard and absorbed all I had to share with them. It was a joint effort. But I was so grateful for the acknowledgement and pleased they spoke so highly of me. I, of course, think the world of him and the ladies at the center.

As an added surprise, the donors also presented fleece blankets and small mattresses for each and every child in the center (54 of them!!!). The children clung to these blankets (which were a great gift, especially with how cold it was yesterday), even as they saw the playground for the first time. It was adorable watching them try to run to the playground and jump on the trampoline and climb the ramp with their blankets in tow. But they were just too excited to part with anything. Precious.

(Side note: When I went into the classroom to greet the children before the event started, they came running over shouting "Kamogelo! Kamogelo" and all wanted to do our "secret handshake". It warmed my heart that they still remembered everything because it was so special to me. And, I know you're likely thinking "But, Tija, it's only been two months, how could they forget?" Well, humans are incredibly resilient. Now apply that to 3-year-old orphans. I left them and was worried they would have blocked it all out in the name of self preservation. I am happy to report that they haven't. Smiles all around!)

After the event, I took some time to walk around the center and check out a number of projects we had done during my service, including the garden. Nearly a year later, the garden is thriving. The center feeds only from there now and it is still producing enough for income generation. It was amazing to see the plants flourishing. I was proud that the staff at the center were keeping up with it and, if anything, had improved the already gorgeous garden. It also a relief to see that nutrition is now taking a front stage in the efforts of the center's work towards helping the children and the home-based care patients.

The same goes for the new fruit tree orchard. This was a slower effort, but potentially more sustainable in the long-term. We grew these from tiny saplings that had been donated by a local greenhouse. There are now nearly twenty fruit trees - papaya, mango, and orange - that accompany our bustling garden. Small buds are beginning to flower on the trees, as the first signs that fruit will come. This is a joyous sight. And, if I may get sentimental for a moment, these trees are representative of our joint efforts at the center. They started out small and we weren't sure what would come of them. But then they were planted and nourished and strong roots began to take hold - a foundation for growth. Now they are strong and the potential limitless. How wonderful to witness.

As I walked into the office after witnessing the event, our awards, and the progress made in the fields around the center, the coordinator impressed me yet another time. She pulled out a new financial report they had made, unassisted, in preparation for an upcoming audit. The report was beautiful. They had learned everything I had shown them and were able to do it all on their own. There were QuickBooks reports and breakdowns and everything was substantiated with perfectly organized ledgers and more. I knew they could do it but it took my breath away to see the end result.

Lastly, the ladies announced that they refurbished a proposal I had written months ago and submitted it to a local foundation. They are meeting with a foundation representative next week about being awarded sponsorship for the next three years. If this happens, the center stands to receive upwards of P1.2 million to support its programs. That would give them the resources to grow the preschool, implement the Kids Club, and expand its reach to help even more people. I am so proud of the ladies for taking the initiative to pursue this opportunity. They are stronger than ever and ready to push forward to a new level. I am blessed to have been a part of their journey to now.

In the words of the coordinator, "All that's left to do is sing and dance and celebrate!"

Reflections And Thanks Given

Growing up, my parents told me countless stories of their lives that both captivated me in awe and amazement and which inspired me to do and be more. I heard about road trips and incredible jobs and travels and wild adventures. They spared few details - a fact I respected them for - and I laughed when their stories took a turn for the bizarre and smiled with every new tale. They were daring and pushed themselves. I remember knowing from a very young age that I had the coolest parents on the planet. This, I resolved, was undoubtable. I wanted to be just like them.

I wanted to have stories of my own to tell. Ones that would make my personal narrative hold memories and adventures that rivaled theirs. I wanted a glimpse at the full and vibrant life that my parents had shared with me. Their bravery to go and do and see everything gave me the strength to challenge myself too. They were my heroes for living their lives to their greatest extent. That is how I always felt, and continue to feel, about them.

Being raised by these two very adventurous and fun-loving parents who came of age in the '60s, it was inevitable that I would be a perpetual "flower child". The ideals I was raised with gave me a sense of purpose and a deep respect for community. Peace, love, and happiness were the end goal. If you could get there by dancing to the beat of a different drum (perhaps an African drum), then all the better. And it is because of them that I am where I am now and can tell so many great tales.

I am living in Africa. I have traveled halfway around the world and back. I have gotten up close and personal with elephants and lions, quad biked on the sand dunes, and out ran a hippo. I have explored Israel, sailed through the Bosporus, danced with strangers into the early morning in Istanbul, scuba dived with 300 pound groupers, and backpacked around Europe. I have lived without water and electricity and among some of the scariest creepy crawlies imaginable. And I have raised over one million pula in donations for agencies around Botswana. I have many stories to tell now... And sometimes it feels like my life is just beginning.

This post is a dedication of these stories and a tribute to my parents. They are a reflection of you and what you inspired me to do with my life. I am beyond grateful that you chose to share your exciting lives with me and pushed me to go out and live mine to the fullest. Thank you. Because of you I will never wonder what could have been but rather be able to say "This one time in..."

The Problem With "Progress"

When we think about progress, most people envision the digital age. They see computers and databases and systems that make everything run quicker and easier. The problem with this in the developing world is that electricity is sometimes out for days or weeks, making it difficult to keep things updated electronically. Most organizations get along fine by having hand-written hard copies of all records too. While this is cumbersome and means doubling the time to do things, it is the only way. Even still, in the name of progress, people are eager to learn how to use computers and get everything online.

Gabane Community Home-Based Care, the organization I spent the majority of my service with, was no exception to this desire to enter the technological world. And, after getting eight computers donated, I helped them scale up operations using them - teaching courses and building systems specifically designed to move them in that direction. We spent tireless hours on typing and then building capacity to create and update financial systems (QuickBooks) and program databases. It was an effort that was bringing new skills to the staff at the center. They were learning so much and being able to do everything on their own. We were excited about our progress. It felt limitless.

A few days ago I received a phone call from the center coordinator. After the customary greetings and small talk, she informed me that she had bad news - "Kamogelo, I have something very sad to tell you." I braced myself. No one likes hearing these words and, within the context of the work I was engaged, it can be scary to hear them. She went on to tell me that a thief had broken into the computer lab I had put together and that all eight of our computers had been stolen. GASP! She said that they had just finished updating all of the systems and that, after so long, they had finally gotten everything organized into QuickBooks from 2010 to present. Be still my heart! I was at a loss for words. On one hand, I was impressed that they had kept up all the hard work in my absence (YAY sustainability!). On the other hand, I was devastated that nearly two years worth of work had been taken from us, just that easily. And taken from such a good-hearted charitable organization no less. How could this be happening?!

After some time in silence, I assured the coordinator that I had some records backed up on my personal hard drives and she confirmed what I already knew - they didn't have a digital backup of anything but they had been hand-writing a hard copy of some things and would have to continue in that manner since the computers were gone. Phew! In that moment, I was so grateful they had not completely discontinued their tedious hand-written work in favor of the more progressive technology. Had they, everything would have been gone. Losing the computers and all the databases and digital files created over the passed years was bad enough.

Crimes of this nature are increasingly common. It is a tragedy and it breaks my heart. But this is the reality in much of the developing world. Sure, it could happen anywhere, but the prevalence rate is much higher in some places. It is something that we, as development workers, need to be conscious of when imparting our perceived notion of "progress" on others. Yes, it may be true that this is the way forward but, at the same time, we have to keep these external factors in mind. I am relieved that we didn't completely do away with the common way of record-keeping in the village in our pursuit of progress. And, the coordinator assures me, when they eventually get computers again, they will be ready to use their new skills to go at it again... as a second means of documentation.

PC/Botswana Project Advisory Committee

Being a Peace Corps Volunteer opens up many doors for unique experiences. This takes shape in the work we do, the people we stand to meet, and the places we get to see. Every day can be an adventure if you are open to it. I have been fortunate to seize many such opportunities. I am delighted to say that, in my third year, they continue to present themselves to me.

On 29 July 2013, my Country Director called to invite me to be a member of Peace Corps Botswana's Project Advisory Committee (PAC). The PAC is new to our post but has already made a significant impact on the work we do in Botswana. Essentially, PAC is comprised of Peace Corps Botswana's key project stakeholders, who are among the highest level officials in the country (having representatives from the heads of key Ministries and the National AIDS Coordinating Agency (NACA)) and acts as the voice that helps Peace Corps ensure that it develops credible, realistic, and responsive projects and training programs. Additionally, the PAC provides input and guidance to Peace Corps and helps to ensure stakeholder coordination and serves as an advisory body to the post's Program and Training Teams. My role on PAC, my CD explained, would be to represent the 102 volunteers currently serving in country and to shed light on what is happening on the ground. This offer was an honor and an opportunity I jumped at.

As I expected, my first PAC meeting was well attended and impressive. The stakeholders were outspoken, energetic, and eager to discuss the issues before the committee. Included in the topics were: the new project frameworks, preliminary results and a sampling of volunteer activities, administrative matters pertinent to the Ministries, site development, the incoming group of trainees, and projections for the upcoming year.

I was most taken by the collaboration between these groups and their passionate and keen interest in furthering and supporting the Peace Corps projects. This working group felt productive and I believe a great stepping stone towards enhancing the work we do around the country. It is no secret that I feel strongly about the potential of Peace Corps Botswana to make a real impact. PAC is a move in the right direction to get everyone on board and working together to ensure that our post can achieve a higher level of functionality and have a profound effect on the communities we reach. I am grateful to be a part of it as we move forward.

In The Field: Single Teen Mothers Workshop Series

Last week, PCI was asked to go to a small settlement called Olifants Drift to conduct a workshop for single teen mothers. The workshop was in response to the high rates of teen pregnancies, including a 12-year-old "falling pregnant" and a 14-year-old who had recently murdered her infant baby. In settlement communities like this one, where opportunities are few, this is a fairly common occurrence.

When PCI asked me to attend and help facilitate the workshop, I was overwhelmed and excited for the invitation. It would be my first official activity since starting with them and it would be my first workshop addressing this topic. We planned to discuss challenges of rural living and then train the teen moms on long-term planning (and the value of education), critical thinking, healthy relationships, risk reduction, and women's empowerment.

Seventeen single teenage mothers were in attendance. Their giggles and coy eye glances gave away the fact that they were nervous to be there. Introductions told me that the average age of the girls was eighteen and their highest schooling was the American equivalent of seventh grade. Most were mothers of more than one child.

As they warmed up to us (myself and the two other staff facilitators from PCI), they told us of their struggles - about being tricked into sex, about their perception of gender roles, about poor rainfall leading to few crops and less food, about the men who promised to marry them and feed them and care for them before running to the next girl, about the difficulties getting to villages with schools to continue their education, and about a mine coming into a nearby village (potentially creating even more problems). In between stories, they made jokes to cut the tension of the subject. They were coping the best they knew how.

After some time, the team of facilitators began working through the challenges one by one. Our team, made up of the Education and Gender Advisors, were a dynamic duo and the girls were soaking up the information. They were engaged in role playing and dialogue, utilizing PCI's GROW Model, which is geared at empowering them and helping them see their own value and strength.

One of the activities the facilitators had the girls do was to tell the room the one thing in their life they wished they could have. Saying it aloud was a form of personal commitment but also a way for their small community of teen moms to help each other achieve it. Almost all of the girls wanted to go back and finish school. Together they discussed the realities of that dream and how to make it happen. The girls seemed to be getting the information and were excited about the potential for the futures.

The two hours each way in the car through almost impassable earthen roads and the ten hour workshop seemed extremely valuable. If we could only reach a few of those girls, it would be worth it.

On our way out of the village, we watched as some of the girls rushed home to be with their children while others made their way to the local shebeen for a drink and to see what "their men" were up to. Behavior change takes time.

The one-day workshop will not be enough on its own. But at least someone had started the ball rolling - someone had taken the time to show they care about them and believe in them and want them to live better and more fulfilled lives. That was PCI, that was me, and that was the community who called to bring us there. In time maybe they will see it too. It requires a commitment from those girls and the support of the community. PCI has committed to doing more of these workshops to drive home the information and to empower these girls. I cannot wait to see it happen.

My New Roles: Third Year Begins

My last few weeks have been jam-packed as I moved into my new apartment in Gaborone, said goodbye to a dear friend, mourned a loss, settled in, and officially began working at my third year assignments. Needless to say, there has been a lot of adjustment - something that I have gotten used to in my time abroad. Through it all, I maintain that the best things in life are seized out of moments like this - when there is an air of uncertainty coupled with a sense of adventure and an open mind. Change, vulnerability, adjustment, and opportunity are the lifeblood of a Peace Corps Volunteer.

So far, the adjustments to my new assignments - as a Volunteer Leader for Peace Corps and a Technical Advisor for PCI - have been positive. The orientations went smoothly, I have remained very excited about the work, I already feel a deep sense of purpose, and the teams I will be assisting are among the best I have known.

With PCI, I will be working with a very diverse and multicultural group of people, hailing from the far corners of the globe. Their experience is just as varied, which offers me ample opportunity to learn and grow. Similarly, the components of the $16.7 million project that PCI has me working on are just as multifarious, ranging from behavior change to economic empowerment to orphan care to integrated early childhood education and finally to women's empowerment. These facets are intertwined, thereby offering me a chance to work alongside specialists and implementing partners in all areas of the project.

While the opportunities for professional growth and exposure to various topics are plenty, there is also much more clarity in my exact role with PCI. I will be advising particularly on the integrated early childhood education (IECD) component and helping mainstream gender (which the project incorporates into all areas). My exact deliverables go as follows:

• Draft and finalize an Adolescent Life Skills Toolkit. This toolkit will be adopted as part of Botswana's National Strategy for life skills education. In this vein, I will also develop a training plan to introduce this toolkit to partners, stakeholders, and government. 
• Finalize an IECD Resource Pack and develop a training plan to launch it. This includes researching and writing resource modules and rolling out trainings on the resource pack to PCI partners and stakeholders.
• Provide technical assistance to setting up an "IECD Model Site" at a village outside the capital to demonstrate best practices. This is from concept to national expansion.
• Plan and organize an IECD Forum to be attended by Botswana Government, USAID, and other key national and international agencies.
• Assist with monitoring and evaluation and reporting of the implementation of the IECD project component according to USAID's indicators. This includes conducting field monitoring activities and compiling M&E reports.

This role has me pushing myself to a higher level. It will be both challenging and immensely rewarding. And, if I am able to satisfactorily pull it all off within my one year's time, be an exceptional feat! Regardless, I am thrilled about the learning opportunity and what I stand to gain from it all. I mean, how many people can say they published two nationally-adopted manuals and created a model site from scratch?! I hope to be among those who can...

My role with Peace Corps is every bit as elaborate and will have me keeping extra busy - and, yes, it may actually feel like having two full-time jobs. It spans an array of duties, including providing technical assistance and information to volunteers, assisting staff with site development and conflict mediation, giving feedback on post and volunteer assignments, and so on.

To date, I have been being a mentor to the incoming group of Peace Corps Trainees who will be coming in two short weeks. This means hosting conference calls to discuss various topics (home stay, safety and security, packing, etc) and responding to countless emails as they prepare to come to Botswana. It has been fun getting to know them prior to arrival and makes me even more excited to meet them and participate in their upcoming training. I have also started helping with site development for the incoming group - attending community meetings to assess buy-in of the village, meeting with potential host agencies, and talking with Peace Corps staff about sites. My involvement has been minimal so far but even getting a taste of what's to come has been compelling. All in all, I think the role as a PCVL will offer extremely valuable insight into the oversight and running of a field office.

That is my third year, in brief. Or at least how it looks today. 

My professional career to date has been varied. I have found the utmost satisfaction doing hands-on capacity building, as with the grassroots development work of my last two years. It will be interesting to see how this new path will feel. Will it be rewarding? Will I like this hybrid office-field assignment? Does it feel different working in an office setting now that I see the direct results in the field? Will this change the course of my future? I will keep you all apprised of my evolution and my impression of the work. I can say that I am most confident and excited about what lays before me. And I am certain that it will be a rewarding, challenging, and eye-opening year.

The Not-So-Funny "Comedy of Errors"

I am writing this post after the emotion has subsided and the sheer exhaustion dealt with. You can be thankful for the wait. Without it, this post would have been filled in expletives and long rants and my keyboard covered in exasperated tears. None of those would have been productive. Plus, honestly, I would have had to print a retraction anyway because I love my life and I love Botswana and Africa is the bees knees. A month and a half ago I would have said otherwise.

June 27th started out like any other day. Well, any day when you are embarking on a thirty-something hour journey from the west coast of America to Southern Africa. I got up, poured myself an extra big cup of coffee, and gave my mom hugs in between shoving things in the side pockets of my luggage. I was sad to be leaving my family and friends but so grateful for having five amazing weeks filled with love, hugs, Starbucks, and taco truck tacos. So, it was with a full belly and a warm heart, that I was to return to Botswana.

My flights across the continental USA went smoothly and I arrived in Atlanta for my Delta Airlines connection to Johannesburg with three hours to spare. As I wandered through the airport in search of a "last meal", I was pleasantly surprised to run into a fellow Bots 10 volunteer who was also on her way back for her extension year. We told tales of our home leaves over Blue Moons and laughed about all the things that led us to this point. It was a great couple of hours before the long leg of the journey.

The flight over the ocean was equally pleasant. I sat next to two university rugby players from New Zealand who were between tournaments, I believe. What I liked most about them was that they were on the same schedule as me - we slept at the same times, watched movies at the same times, and took similar bathroom breaks. Being on the aisle was never so easy!

As we landed in Johannesburg, my excitement at being so close to home was almost more than I could handle. In a few short hours, I would be back in Botswana and giving my boyfriend a great big bear hug! That reality, on its own, provided me with enough energy to almost skip towards the transit area to get my new boarding pass. Exhaustion be damned!

Now here's where everything started to go south...

There was a fairly significant line at the transit counter for Air Botswana and both my fellow Bots 10 and I needed to go get new boarding passes there. So we found our spot in the queue, somewhere in the middle of what appeared to be a youth sports team all wearing matching Botswana jumpsuits. Person by person, they started cutting in front of us. This is an unfortunate yet common practice in Botswana (pushing the white person to the back of the line) and something we had both forgotten about in our months at home. We periodically tried to convey our frustration but no one seemed to care. Before long, the last of the sports team was at the counter and we were the last to get our boarding passes (with a mere forty minutes left before take off).

My friend received her boarding pass with little issue and at long last it was my turn. I handed the attendant my passport and my flight confirmation sheet and was ready to grab my boarding pass and make a beeline for the security check, which was already filling up much more than our remaining layover time allowed for. I waited... and I waited... and the ticket guy fumbled around... and I waited... he asked if I had any other information but I didn't because that was the ticket confirmation and booking numbers. I waited more... he called someone up... he hung up and informed me that I wasn't in the system but that he could see the confirmation so there shouldn't be a problem. He then assured me there were three seats still on the plane. The clocked ticked ever closer to departure time. He made another phone call. In apparent lulls in his call I asked if everything was ok and he shook his head yes. I was relieved. I saw the departure board switch to say that our flight was boarding the airplane. My friend had to leave or risk missing the flight. The ticket guy hung up the phone. What follows is as accurate of a conversation as I remember from that night:

Ticket Guy: We don't have you in our system for this flight.
Me: But you see my confirmation number?
TG: Yes.
Me: And there are seats on the plane?
TG: Yes. There are three available seats.
Me: Can I buy one of them now and I can deal with the rest later?
TG: No.
Me: Why?
TG: Because the plane has switched to "boarding" and I can't sell tickets after they start boarding.
Me: But I have been standing here waiting on you to get off the phone. And I should have been helped a half hour ago but you kept calling people up before me, which wasn't right either.
TG: I cannot sell you a ticket.
Me: But when you were on the phone you said everything was fine, otherwise I would have asked to buy one earlier.
TG: (shrugs shoulders) You aren't in the system for this flight.
Me: Ok... When is the next flight out?
TG: Tomorrow at noon. (Note: I later found out that the first flight out was at 10:40AM. Extra irritated.)
Me: Are there seats available on that flight?
TG: I don't know.
Me: Can you check and tell me?
TG: No.
Me: Why?
TG: Because I shut down my system.
Me: Since I have been standing here, trying to figure out my ticket, you shut your system down?
TG: Yes.
Me: Ok... Is there a place that I can get a SIM card or access wifi so I can check for myself?
TG: No. We no longer sell SIM cards in the airport and there is no wifi anywhere. You could go to the post office and get a card but the post office is closed until tomorrow.
Me: So you can't tell me if there are seats available because you shut your system down and I can't find out on my own? So what am I supposed to do?
TG: Not my problem. (Then he turned and walked away.)

ARE YOU KIDDING ME?! At this point, emotions took over, compounded by the exhaustion that was temporarily at bay due to elation. I was overwhelmed with frustration. I cried. Then I cried a little more. Then I had an inner monologue (read: RANT) that went something like:

Why am I in this crappy place? Why do I work so hard to make this place better when no one is willing to help me? I hate Africa. All I want is to get home and I can't. ...Home? America! Maybe I should see if there's a flight back there. Everything is easier in America. ...I want to see Tuan. I was so excited to see him... I am going to live in this airport for forever and ever because I can't get out of here... People here suck... America is so beautiful and people are so friendly... I just want to see my boyfriend... I just want to be with my mama. I can't even call my mom. Oh my god, my mom is going to panic if she doesn't hear from me... I don't have a South African SIM card... Let me check my phone and see if I have roaming... OF COURSE MY PHONE IS DEAD... I HATE AFRICA... Today sucks... Well, today was horrible... This ticket guy is a horrible person... I wonder what his name is and if I can get him in trouble for being a giant jerkface... I wonder if anyone has ever really lived in an airport. They did make that one movie called The Terminal so probably... This is my life now - a Peace Corps Volunteer stranded in Johannesburg... Oh my god, I'm trapped in Johannesburg! This place is fully of crime. I'm so getting mugged in this airport tonight. And, of course, now that I have a fancy iPad... I need to call Tuan because he's going to be worried when he goes to pick me up from the airport and I'm not there. How do I call him? Why did I give him my South African SIM card? ...I hate it here... Everything is so much harder in Africa... TIJA LEIGH DANZIG, STOP FEELING SO SORRY FOR YOURSELF AND DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT!

So I got up off the ground, wiped my tears, and started trying to make a plan. I went around asking people where to purchase a SIM card. I even got a little comforting from the ladies at the KLM ticket counter. But, unfortunately, no one could help me.

Finally, feeling defeated and exhausted but determined to find a way out, I went to the man at the baggage security checkpoint. I asked him if there was any way I could go beyond that point, despite not having a boarding pass, to see if there was a place to buy a SIM card or access the internet. He asked me what the problem was and then I burst into tears. Between whimpers, I managed to get the story out - about trying to get back to Botswana but having an issue with my ticket and not getting on the flight and how I needed to tell my boyfriend who was supposed to pick me up that I wasn't on the flight and that I needed to get a new ticket. He looked sympathetic. He then asked me why I was going back to Botswana. I told him that I was a Peace Corps Volunteer and had extended my service for another year and had gone home for a month in between contracts. With that, he completely softened. He told me that he had been taught by PCVs in his township in South Africa and that he cherished the work we are doing. He said that the only way to keep us here is to be kind and helpful. He then handed me his cell phone. He said to use it to call my boyfriend and to hold onto it until everything was figured out. BE STILL MY HEART, SOMEONE WAS BEING HELPFUL! In that moment, this man was my lifesaver. And, not only did he let me use his phone (for free!), but he also brought me some snacks to eat!

Meanwhile, in Botswana... My boyfriend received the phone call from me about Air Botswana's disregard and rudeness and the fact that I was going to live in the airport until further notice. He was mad. Five weeks apart and a ruined reunion was more than that guy could handle. So he got into his car and drove out to the airport in Gaborone and marched straight to the Air Botswana office. He literally told them that no one could leave until they sorted out my ticket for the following day. Having stood in front of the door and acting as a human barricade, they finally succumbed and got me on a flight 18 hours later.

Back in Johannesburg... I spent 18 hours in the OR Tambo International Airport. But I didn't have to spend it all in the transit terminal. The same super kind and helpful security officer let me through to the departures terminal, despite not having a boarding pass, so I could go get a hot meal and be (slightly) more comfortable. Because the ladies at the KLM desk were so friendly earlier, I decided to take a chance and ask if I could sit inside their lounge. They agreed! I was able to access their wifi (take that Ticket Guy, there was wifi in the airport!) and eat a snack without having to pay anything!

Around 1am, just as I was finally falling asleep in the KLM lounge (on two chairs that I had pushed together), a security guard came to tell me that they were closing for the night. Of course! He asked me what I was going to do until my flight at noon the next day. I told him that I would find a spot in the terminal that was lit and sit there. He responded: "No, no. You cannot stay like that. Not safe. No, no." I explained that I had no choice and slowly started to pack my bags and leave. On my way out, he appeared again, this time as an escort to bring me to another lounge that was open all night. Even though that one required me to pay (a lot) to stay, he insisted that I had to because the alternative was not a safe option. I was grateful that he cared enough and, honestly, was too tired at this point to argue. I hadn't slept in nearly 40 hours.

Flash forward to my arrival in Botswana... My luggage didn't make it. None of it. And, when I inquired about it at lost baggage, they said they didn't think it made it to Africa because they had no record but would keep looking for it. Great. I went to walk through customs and reunite with my boyfriend. It had been a long couple of days.

After a kiss and a big hug, he starts leading me over to the waiting area benches. I asked where we were going and he said "I need you to sit down." Uh-uh, no way, I've been sitting for days. He proceeded to tell me that he got a phone call from my Country Director that my house had been broken into the night before and that "everything was gone". Whaaaaat?! Welcome back to Botswana - people are unhelpful, you get stuck in airports, your baggage doesn't make it, aaaaaaand your house was broken into. No big deal. Just another day in Africa, right? Why did I come back here?! So we hopped into the car and made our way to the village to assess the damage...

I am happy to report that, although the house was completely ransacked, my pre-planning paid off and there was very little in my house of value (because I had brought it to my boyfriend's before I left - empty houses are often targets and I didn't want to be a victim...). But, I have to share a funny story right now about what was taken... I store all of my drinking water in empty glass alcohol bottles. So I had about ten empty vodka bottles that were acting as storage receptacles in my refrigerator. All ten of those bottles were stolen. So, ladies and gentlemen, there were likely a bunch of placebo drunk slash super hydrated people wandering around Gabane village! Whoops! The joke is on them! WATER!

Good news: two days later my baggage arrived!

Flash forward one more day... My boyfriend came to pick me up for dinner at a house that I was housesitting (for a friend who was on medical leave in Pretoria). He parked his car outside the compound and came in for about fifteen or twenty minutes. We walk outside, go to get into the car, and see that his car window had been smashed in. Someone, at about 6pm, broke into his car and stole everything! He had his flight bag in the car - with his expensive aviation head set - and a bunch of new clothes I had bought for him while in America. To add insult to injury, the thieves even stole his pilot's uniform! Why in the world would they need that?! So it was back to the police station to file the second report in the same amount of days...

But all is not lost! My boyfriend was able to replace his headset with an upgrade because some kind folks were returning to Botswana from America and, after hearing the news, offered to carry them back for him! (Note to pilots everywhere: they are about one third the price in America so buy them there if you plan to relocate.) I am convinced that I will see one of the new sweatshirts I brought my boyfriend just wandering around Gaborone some day on the backs of one of the thieves. Botswana is small and Gabs is smaller and I WILL FIND THEM! I get a huge chuckle every time I think about the house robbers drinking water instead of vodka because, lets face it, that's hilarious! And I was able to meet some very good souls in the OR Tambo International Airport, proving, once again, that one kind act can change someone's whole day.

So this long and winding tale doesn't end badly. While it was trying and tiring, it ends with a few laughs, some grit and determination, and a smile. Because, after all, TIA. This is Africa. Gotta live and let it go.

Special Home Leave

Going home was everything I had hoped it would be and more (with only very few of my "worries" coming to fruition - yay!). It was a time to reconnect with family and friends and to share about my experiences over the last two years and about this culture and people that I love so much. I was overwhelmed at times - by the sheer magnitude of "stuff" in America and by the outpouring of love - but felt so connected and welcomed. And, honestly, it was amazing to have hot water come out of the faucet every time and to be able to simultaneously do laundry, wash dishes, and sit outside on the porch (i.e. not do everything by hand). Oh technology!

I could launch into a hundred stories about turning thirty, going to Art Fest, drinking coffee with my mama, windy beaches and eating too many tacos, long conversations over wine, naked bike riders (Solstice Festival), or nights out with friends. But pictures really do say it all so I am just going to share a sampling of my favorites from my five weeks spent across New York, Washington, and California. It really was an amazing time.

Thank you to everyone that was a part of my home leave in between my two years of service and my extension year. I cherish every moment that I got to spend with you and am sincerely grateful to have you in my life. Each person pictured here, each little note or text message I received, and so many more are what makes my life so special. Thank you.

I Would Like My Pizza With That Delivery

The week leading up to my move to Gaborone and home leave was a stressful one. There was a high level of emotions and internal conflict. Add to that the physical drain of having to pack up my house and move everything to my boyfriend's place (for safe-keeping while I was away for five weeks) and I am sure you can imagine what I was going through. I was a bit of a mess.

But that's not to say there wasn't moments of humor in the mix. This is a short tale of one such instance...

After a particularly exhausting packing and moving day, my boyfriend and I plopped down on the couch in his living room and half passed out. And then the rumbling of our tummies startled us awake, as we realized we had neglected them most of the day. Man, were we hungry! But we were also far too tired to be bothered with going to the grocery store and the remnants in the kitchen cupboards just weren't going to suffice this time. So we made a snap decision to order pizza. Pizza is, after all, the only thing that has delivery in our part of Gaborone.

I called the pizza place to make the order. One large pizza would cost us about P88 (roughly $11). We only had a P200 note so I let them know to bring change for that. (It is important to note that you can almost never get change in Botswana. Even if you can see change in the drawer. And, if someone doesn't have exact change for you, down to the thebe, they just won't sell you the product. So alerting the pizza delivery guy to needing change is an absolute must here.)

About forty minutes later, there's a knock on the door. We were SO EXCITED about the pizza getting here that we quite literally leapt of the couch and went running for the door. We handed the delivery guy the P200 note and he gave us exact change (phew!). And then he looked at us blankly. "I forgot your pizza." "What do you mean you forgot the pizza?" "I brought you the change but forgot the pizza." The PIZZA DELIVERY GUY, the guy whose job title tells perfectly what his sole responsibility is, forgot the pizza. Only here could that happen. So off he went, back to the pizza place to pick up the pizza...

Twenty minutes later, our pizza arrived.

All you can do is laugh.

TIA.