The Endless Water Saga: A Desert-Dweller's Dilemma

This is a picture of the Gaborone dam on the 1st of November. As you can see, it isn't much to look at these days. In fact, the Water Utilities Corporation (WUC) stated that the dam is at about 14% (although this photograph begs to differ). Of the four dams in this area, half are already completely dried up. This equates to the southern half of the country having mere weeks of water left. When a fellow Peace Corps Volunteer asked someone in her village what happens next, the response was: "we die."

Now, I don't think the situation is quite that bleak. Despite having their own water issues, I can't imagine South Africa letting us die before offering some water and the Botswana government has consistently been meeting with WUC to discuss a way forward. Plus, if we're lucky, it will rain for more than five or ten minutes at a time... (But that requires Mother Nature playing a more active role here and that's not a reliable solution.) The truth is, the villager's assertion may be the reality for some in the most rural of villages. For those of us near the capital city, however, it is looking as though WUC will likely start funneling treated recycled water to homes or, they are suggesting, setting up pay-as-you-go standpipes and shutting the water off otherwise. Hopefully this method will work and it can be extended out further into the southern part of the country. If not, the four plus days per week without water will seem like a cakewalk.

I would like to state that Botswana is a desert country and its inhabitants are no stranger to going without water for extended periods of time. This is not to say that very serious issues don't arise as a result of droughts like this, but rather that people here live in such a way that they are constantly prepared for water issues - storing water, learning to bathe and clean and live with less, and so on. (Plus, I'm not going to lie, somehow folks seem to survive without drinking nearly as much water as my constantly dehydrated self needs. I think this may be to their benefit in times like these.) Peace Corps Volunteers adopt many of these practices throughout their service so we, in turn, become adept desert-dwellers. We become part of this place, including its challenges. We are fortunate here, though, in that the country is also a tight-knit community full of hearty people who tend to take care of each other whenever possible. And they have embraced us. It may be hard in the coming weeks but we are survivors and we will make even this work.

A Very Thai Vacation

After living abroad for thirty-one months (and particularly in a developing country), traveling takes on new meaning and I see the world in a whole new light. I see my travel destinations for what they offer their inhabitants and my experiences are charged with a different energy, a whole new level of understanding. It becomes about both experiencing a new place through the eyes of a tourist and through the eyes of a local. You see a place more holistically through these eyes. Until recently, this new perspective was confined to my travels around Africa. I saw other African nations and compared them to where I was living. There was something that bound them all together and was familiar, even if some aspects varied.

I recently traveled to Thailand with my boyfriend and two fellow Peace Corps Volunteers. We spent two weeks traversing the country - navigating overnight trains, local buses, tuk tuks, longboats, and bicycles. Everywhere I went seemed like "the best place in Thailand". Until, of course, I reached the next destination of our journey. (Can they all be "the best place"?) I felt my worldview expanding. Beautiful temples and historic ruins filled my soul and dancing children in the jungles of the north made me smile. White water rafting tested my courage, while long hikes pushed my strength to its brink. (And lets not forget the beautiful beaches that tanned my skin!)

But there was even more to offer there. There was an intricate and well constructed transit system, wide-spread high-speed internet, and more restaurants and coffee shops than one person could visit. There were markets and small businesses and entrepreneurs and opportunities for growth. There was ambition and drive in its populace - extending from the capital city to the southern islands to the hill tribes outside Chiang Mai. It is a dynamic and bustling nation. My travel companions and I discussed this at length (along with some of the challenges we saw along the way). After all, we all know what it's like to live in a developing country and we did not allow ourselves to become too consumed by the tourist sites to take notice.

Thailand was everything and nothing like I expected.

I loved Thailand. Everything about it. I could see myself living there and envisioned what that life would be like. It was beautiful.

Here's a glimpse at what my life in Thailand might look like, through the eyes of a traveling development worker, tourist, and girl with a dream to explore the world:

What a glorious life it would be.

And what an amazing life I lead to be able to experience it and see what that world is like.

Bots 14 Swears In (Also Known As "A Very Proud PCVL")

“Swearing In Day” is one of the proudest and most important moments in a Peace Corps Volunteer’s life. It signifies the end of pre-service training and the beginning of a journey that most have dreamed about for years. It is a day marked with achievement and promise. October 15^th will hold this level of significance for 58 Bots 14s, who took their oath of service and became the newest group of PCVs in Botswana.

As spectators listened to the speeches given by our distinguished guests and Peace Corps colleagues, themes sprang to light. The ideas of togetherness and friendship and collaboration echoed through everyone. Ululations and cheers showed that we were together and in agreement. These three simple words are very profound and, as a third year volunteer, resonated with me as I heard them stated in numerous ways throughout the ceremony. They are the starting point for a fruitful service, which made them fitting for this occasion.

Chargé d’ Affaires Michael Murphy articulated the richness of the Peace Corps experience – both its moments of joy and exhilaration and those of frustration and hardship. Through it all, he shared a message of positivity and urged the Bots 14s to recognize the formative role they will play in the development of youth and the importance of becoming a member of their local communities. Through this, he stated, “you will be able to open windows of learning and collaboration that no one else can... this collaboration can last a lifetime.”

These sentiments were shared by the Bots 14s, who seem to have a keen insight into Peace Corps service that far outweighs their time in country. Our very own Camille “CJ” Jones and Becky Carnes gave brilliant speeches in Setswana, causing many (myself included) to tear up, as they reminded us all about what really matters – “The meeting of hearts and the emphasis on collaboration... to build on the capacity of people.” At its core, that is what Peace Corps service is all about. “We can accomplish it together – learning from each other – together, Batswana and American, yes we can!”

Finally, at the end of his address, Kgosi Segkoma declared his wish for this Bots 14 group: “When you finish your service, I hope you feel you have given it all – and accomplished it together.” That is my hope for each of you as well. It has been an honor and a joy to have supported you as a PCVL throughout your PST. I am so proud of the Bots 14s and the entire Peace Corps family. Congratulations, guys! PULA!

The Virtues Project

A friend and fellow Bots 10 PCV is assisting a small local agency with their goal to bring about a more compassionate nation, in accordance with Vision 2016. One of their efforts in doing this is through bringing The Virtues Project to Botswana.

The Virtues Project is a global grassroots initiative to inspire the practice of virtues in everyday life. Its aim is to empower individuals "to live more authentic meaningful lives; families to raise children of compassion and integrity; educators to create safe, caring, and high performing learning communities; and leaders to encourage excellence and ethics in the workplace." This model is tried and tested in more than 95 countries and was honored by the United Nations during the International Year of the Family as a "model global program for families of all cultures."

I am proud to say that I am helping put on the very first Virtues Project workshop in Botswana, to be held next month. My role is assisting with logistics and recruiting interested and motivated parties to attend. So far we have registered forty people from the education and youth development fields. I will also be in attendance at the workshop, as will a representative from the organization I am working for, Project Concern International (PCI). My hope is that, along with the workshop participants, PCI can disseminate the information to our 11 implementing partners across the country and help spread this vision even further.

It is our mutual desire that the tools presented will help teachers and others nurture the children of Botswana in the skills and qualities they need to be successful in school and in life. This is a very meaningful project and one that I am grateful to be involved with.

This Is Just To Say (Water Rationing Continued)

Today it reached 107 degrees Fahrenheit. No amount of water can keep you from getting dehydrated at that temperature. Unfortunately, Botswana is still experiencing a very serious drought. Villages in the southern part of the country are completely without water three and four times per week now and the reservoir is down to 14% capacity. This is one of the disadvantages of living in a desert country in Africa. Excuse me if I look a little funky - I choose hydration over clean clothes any day. After all, baby wipes get me clean enough, right? Off I go to drink a glass of stored water then pray for rain. Because, yes, they believe prayer will bring on the downpour. TIA.

Meet My New Roommate

Meet Finda.

Finda is my new roommate. She will be living with me until she finishes her four month extension with Botswana's Ministry of Health.

Finda is a Bots 11 PCV (meaning she came in the group that arrived six months after me). For her first two years she lived in the village of Letlhakeng and worked ICT Local Government Capacity Builder at the District AIDS Coordinating Office.

Finda graduated from the Rochester Institute of Technology and is currently applying for PhD programs with the goal of helping bring technology and computer training to rural underserved communities.

Her favorite color is purple, she loves to bake delicious treats, and you can follow her experience at http://ictpc.blogspot.com/.

Progress: Life Skills Toolkit

Today I put the finishing touches on the nearly 300-page Life Skills Toolkit that I have been working on for the past few months. It is still in draft form but I would say that it is now at the "final rough draft" stage. And I am pretty happy with that!

A lot goes into a document of this magnitude - one intended for publication and dissemination on a national level - so getting to this point has been no small feat. It has required significant research, focus groups, discussions, and analysis. All before organizing lesson plans and more into one cohesive document. I am proud to say that my compilation skills seem to be top notch and the information contained in those pages should be highly beneficial for life skills facilitators. Or at least I hope so.

To ensure the material is at the standard it needs to be, we are in the process of assembling a technical team to review and provide feedback on the document. We are calling on the heads of Botswana's Ministries, leaders in the education field, teachers, and even a few acclaimed students. I will sit with them throughout this process, gathering information, and having a dialogue about content. Afterwards, it's back to the keyboard and long hours to get it finished by mid-November, just in time to go to print before the nearly month-long festive holiday. Phew.

The more I work on this project, the more I understand the great need for it. With each teacher and volunteer and student that I talk to, I become more dedicated to its cause and excited to be a key player in making it happen. Because, while Botswana does have a great framework for life skills education and a basic curriculum, nothing exists with information for implementation. This toolkit should act as a way forward in using the preexisting material. Botswana needs something like this and the children and youth deserve it. Life skills education, here we come!

Water Rationing

I have often discussed how Peace Corps Volunteers horde water because of the inevitability of a water outage - stock up while you can, use sparingly when you can't. Water is a perpetual issue. This is even more evident when the "rainy season" just doesn't produce enough rain. Why is this a problem, you ask? Aren't you happy to evade the torrential downpours, you question? I will answer you now.

Water dispersed around Botswana comes from the reservoirs and dams that fill up as a result of rain showers during the months of December through February. If they don't get rain, we don't have water. If there's no water, then the crops die, the animals suffer, and the people go without.

This assaults all facets of life. It goes a lot deeper than washing your clothes more sparingly or not having a bath. For example, people live off of personal gardens and farms in the lands. If the crops die then they go hungry. If the cattle have nothing to eat because the grass has dried up then they get skinny and eventually also die. Without them, there is no chance of additional income for the families. This often leads to an increase in desperation and a rise in crime. Everyone and everything suffers. Botswana has not escaped this trauma.

Botswana is in the midst of a very severe draught. Rainfall in last year's rainy season was exceptionally low. The current projections have the water reserves in the southern part of the country running dry in about two months. That is just before the rains are supposed to come again. If it is like last year, however, we could go months before we see water. This has unleashed a whole slew of problems and very few answers of what to do next. One thing they have instituted though is water rationing.

Water rationing is rolling shut-offs of water to certain areas. When I returned to Botswana from my home leave at the end of June, they had already started this. My area of Gaborone was without water on Saturdays. Inconvenient to have an outage over a weekend but I was grateful to know for a fact when the water would be out so I could plan for it. This, as I saw it, was a blessing. The government then asked people to be diligent and responsible with their water usage the rest of the week, calling for cutbacks (including shutting down car washes, which is a huge independent industry here that supports the livelihoods of so many).

As of yesterday, the water rationing has increased to two water shutoffs a week within Gabs city limits and even more in the villages outside. It is instituted with the hope that they can keep the complete loss of water at bay until the rains come. So it is with cautious optimism that I accept my second day's shutoff. It is a small plan for this big issue but it's something. Rain dances would be appreciated. Anything that might help.

Now if only they could figure out what to do about all the subsidiary problems that are arising...

The Pirates Took Our Internet

Last week, the internet went out in Gaborone. I was told that the entire city was without internet because of a glitch in the main system. After word spread to the offices in the complex where I work, people started thinning out for the day. I was among those who decided to venture home.

I began my walk back towards my apartment right around the time when my mom usually logs online and we get a few moments to chat. The majority of our communication is done this way - over instant messenger and email. Without internet, however, I would not be able to log on so I shot her a text message so she wouldn't worry. A few minutes later, my phone rang. Mama Tina! How exciting to get to hear her voice and talk with her on my journey home.

The first thing she asked me when I reiterated that the internet was down across the city was "Does this have anything to do with the pirates?" I paused for a moment, trying to make sense of her question. And then it dawned on me...

During my first year in Botswana, the internet went down for an extended time. I chalked it up to life in Africa and didn't think much more of it. That is, until someone explained the outage to me:

"The pirates dropped their anchor off the coast of Kenya and it hit the undersea internet lines. We won't have internet back until those cables are repaired."

PIRATES?! You have to be kidding me?! We have to deal with pirates here?! This was almost too much for my brain to handle.

To me, pirates were only in movies or rides at Disney World. They weren't real. At least they had never played a role in my life before so I could imagine them as something of fantasy and fiction. And, honestly, it was pretty funny to think that pirates, with peg-legs and hooks (of course), were the ones who "stole my internet". Which is true. PIRATES! And a pirate ship no less! Anchor plop, bye bye internet.

They were not the thieves this time though.

But now pirates are a part of my story. And, it seems, a story that my mama has a great chuckle out of too.

A Weekend Away: Savuti Game Reserve

One of the perks of being a pilot is getting to travel and see some beautiful sites. One of the perks of dating a pilot is occasionally getting to tag along. This weekend I got to do just that as we traveled to Savuti Game Reserve, a part of Chobe National Park. (And, yes, before you say anything, this is work for my main squeeze. I'm just happy the very kind clients let me come along this time!)

My skillful boyfriend brought the little Beechcraft airplane down on a dried dirt landing strip in the middle of the bush - fulfilling a classic "TIA moment". From there, we hopped into a safari vehicle for the forty minute ride to the exquisite Ghoha Hills Savuti Lodge, where we would stay for the evening. Along the bumpy sand road, we saw herds of elephants, kudu, and an assortment of other animals. I couldn't wipe the big goofy grin off my face. I was in heaven.

The lodge is nestled up on the hillside amongst the trees, making it one of the most picturesque places I have been. Add to that the fact that it's an eco-friendly lodge and it has my vote for best bush lodge! The rooms are spectacular, with indoor/outdoor rain showers, plush beds, and the most spectacular view to wake up to in the morning. Honestly, I could hardly believe the view as I looked out from the bed of our tent-bungalow window. Amazing! Everywhere I looked was something even more beautiful or exciting (lion tracks by the camp?!). It was one part adventure and another part scenic reverie.

My boyfriend and I spent the hours watching animals come to and from a nearby watering hole, listening to animal calls (leopards, hyenas, and a pel's owl!!), playing board games, sitting by a fire, and reading our books snuggled up together. Without television and internet, it gave us some much-needed quiet time away from the city and an opportunity to relax and reconnect. Getting to see some game and eat delicious food (for free) was a nice added touch. After all, a night like this would normally set you back upwards of $900! Peaceful and serene, totally worth it, but outside of our normal price range. So this was a treat beyond compare. And, at least for him, it's all in a day's work!

After twenty-eight hours of pure bliss, we boarded the plane, avoiding about a dozen elephants hanging out at the end of the runway, and began our journey home to Gaborone. But first we had to make a pitstop in Maun to fill up the plane with fuel. This gave me an opportunity to see elephants wading through water and ducking for shade-cover under a nearby tree from above as we ascended and then to gawk at the glory of the Okavango Delta from thousands of feet up. It was a sight unlike any other. I have to say, the delta is truly impressive and magnificent and I am proud to be living in a place that has maintained such a natural wonder.

In all, this was a remarkable weekend getaway. I got to see my boyfriend in action, take a couple of really fun flights with him from the front seat (a view that is really amazing), see African wildlife, and relax in the beauty of the bush. All with a smile and my favorite guy. How did I get so lucky?