House Building Project Update

Last week we finalized the paperwork to move forward with the house building project. This meant meeting with the Kgosi to authorize (and ensure) inheritance of the plot and its structures to the children and grandchildren when the mother eventually passes and then submitting the forms with the land board. This was of utmost importance to me before continuing the construction, primarily because I want to make sure the young ones do not get overpowered by long lost relatives or anyone else who might sweep in during the 11th hour and leave the kids even more destitute. Fortunately, we were successful in getting everything organized and officially filed so it was all systems go on the project over the weekend!

The interior of the house has been plastered and the doors have been ordered. Painting and installation of windows, doors, and so forth is set for some time within the next two weeks. If our financial resources hold out, it looks like we will also be able to get the house wired for electricity. In total, the house should be ready for the family to be moved in by Valentine's Day! Now that's what I call a "gift of love"!

This is a collosal achievement - building a home for this family will improve their lives beyond measure. This is possible because of the kind, generous, and wonderful support of the Gabane and American communities who have pledged so much. I will forever be grateful to each person who shared in this project.

Holy Mackerel!

I know I stated in my passed blog post that it was a little over five months until my group closes its service and heads onto the next adventure. Well, folks, I was somewhat mistaken in my calculations. It turns out there are only 139 days left before we hit the pavement (whoa, pavement?!). That means it's actually closer to four and a half months! I over-estimated by nearly a month! How quickly the time goes... But why am I mentioning this? Could it just be a clerical error that I wanted to fix? No way. I've made a number of those throughout my postings, I'm sure (whoops, sorry), and I haven't made a post about it (I just fixed it in the original post and moved on). Could it be because I can't wait to get out of here? Heck no! If you couldn't tell, I love it here. So much so that over the weekend I officially sent in my application to extend my service for another year. So then why!? you might ask. Fear not, I will tell you! It's because I JUST NOW, while having a casual IM conversation with my mother, had to have my very first "plan around this when you make arrangements to come home" discussion. Yes, folks, I am coming home so soon that I am actually having to consider things and plan around them for when I get there! (WHAT?! Are you kidding me?! I can hardly believe it!) Although I don't have the exact date yet for when I will be in the great state of Washington (check back in with me near the end of February), it's close enough that we can start murmuring about that day. And, more importantly, start planning the epic party that will be had! I mean, after all, it will be a "30th birthday" slash "welcome back" slash "we've missed you" slash "good luck in your third year" (hopefully) party! That sort of thing has to go down in history I think! So watch out family, friends, and followers... I'm coming for you! And SOON! :)

Ramblings on Change and my Beloved Group

I have been very introspective and reflective these passed few days. As you may remember from my ramblings nearly two years ago, this is part and parcel of a Peace Corps Volunteer's routine - having ample time to just sit with their thoughts. As a general rule, PCVs are deep thinkers and even more passionate planners. This makes us very efficient and diligent workers, able to tackle hard tasks in grassroots development, but has often also provided much anguish in the long hours alone in the village. The time spent by myself, left to ponder my life and my existence and, truly, humanity, used to rattle me to the core. I had things I needed to work through and personal obstacles to overcome. Since then, I have grown to love and appreciate my alone time and can literally sit in silence for long hours reflecting and, albeit to a lesser extent, looking forward. Now I recognize that this time alone is precious. It is something that once was more than I could handle but now seems harder to come by so I am grateful for these passed days. Most of my thoughts come back to my group and our time here...

My group has just over five months left in Botswana. The time has flown by at a rate that I can only refer to as "lightening fast". When I think back to the last minute scramble to throw things in my hiking pack into the wee hours of the morning before I left, it seems like only yesterday. But when I think about how far I have come and everything I have experienced and been through, it seems like a lifetime ago. The girl that stuffed an extra skirt into her pack in lieu of extra face wash hardly exists anymore, at least not in that same way.

We have all changed. Looking at pictures with other members of my group from when we first arrived here, we all laugh and clamor about how young we all look. We have aged. We look a little haggard and rough around the edges now but I think it shows wisdom and courage. We are also a little jaded after all this time dealing with hardship but we are also more aware of ourselves and our capabilities and have maintained the will to try. We are not afraid of failure because we know how much sweeter it is when projects finally work out.

I have watched my group-mates grow in such unique and beautiful ways. For one, that might mean coming out of her shell and becoming strong and independent. For another, that might mean overcoming the ebbs and flows of his service to ultimately feel happy and successful. And, for yet another, that might have meant knowing when to say goodbye and head home to pursue the next big thing in their life. We have all had our own battles to fight and hardship to overcome along the way but we have done it as a group. I have loved watching my friends be transformed into these incredibly inspiring people.

And, on top of this evolution of being, we have had a rockin good time together. From quad biking on the sand dunes in Namibia to kayaking with penguins in South Africa to croc hunting in the Delta, it has been one crazy amazing adventure.

It's hard for me to believe that, before we know it, this time together will be complete. All of these realities will become memories and those extra grey hairs in our head a quiet reminder. I am proud of my group and where we have come and grateful to have shared this adventure with them. It's not every day you feel grounded by both your head and your heart but, for me, that's where I'm at. So a deep breath and a smile for the quest. I intend to relish in these last five months with my group and brace myself for what's next. It's going to be a wild ride!

"Top 12 of Twenty-12"

To highlight all of the fabulous adventures of the past year, here are my "Top 12 Moments of Twenty-12":

12.  Cape Town, South Africa

I started 2012 out by ringing in the new year in Cape Town. We ate food, saw the sights, went shopping, tasted some amazing wine, and went kayaking with penguins. It was a really fun trip with over a dozen other Peace Corps Volunteers to a place that everyone should visit at least once.

11. Moving to Gabane

In early February 2012, I moved from my quaint little village of Kumakwane to a new site 15km down the road. Gabane became my new home and Gabane Community Home-Based Care became my new primary project. This move marked a significant milestone for me and was one that opened so many doors. I have really flourished in my time here - gaining invaluable experience and helping the NGO grow and expand its reach.

10. Making New Friends

I became closer with those I befriended in my first nine months in Botswana and I made many new friends. These friendships enriched my time here. In my down times, these people lifted me up and brought a smile to my face. In my happy times, they made all the more special by sharing in the successes and joys of service.

9. Kumakwane Community Football and Wellness Event

On 10 July 2012, alongside a fellow PCV, an RPCV, and Friends of Sonoma, I hosted an event in the Kumakwane community to bring people together for health and wellness (and a whole lot of fun). It was a day filled with laughter and tears of gratitude from event hosts and Batswana alike. It was the practical application of everything you learn in studying grassroots development and programming. It was a success by every measure.

8. Teddy Bear Day

Teddy Bear Day was a way to honor and show love to 147 orphans and vulnerable children in the Gabane community. In association with the Mother Bear Project, we were able to give teddy bears to each of these children. These bears were more than a simple gift, but rather represented our continued commitment to helping alleviate the pain that they each carry. It is a symbol of the work I have been doing in Botswana. And, in the end, their smiles alone make it one of my top moments of the year.

7. Seeing a Leopard

This highlight goes along with another favorite moment of 2012, but its significance makes it deserving of its own spot in the list. The first moment that I saw a leopard was emotional for me. I hadn't expected it to be - we had just spent an hour sitting six feet from a pair of lions - but that first sighting touched my soul and my heart and made me literally cry because I was so moved and overwhelmed.

6. Christmukkah

I have known how much my boyfriend loves me for quite some time. He makes sure not only to tell me but also to show me he cares in a million different ways. But this holiday season, he went above and beyond to ensure that Hanukkah and Christmas were extra special. It will go down as one of my favorite holidays ever - and the first since my dad died where I have truly enjoyed it.


5. Okavango Delta Trip

The Delta is one of the most gorgeous places I have ever been. Having seen it, I now understand why it is one of the 1000 Places To See Before You Die.

4. Presidential Visits (Yes, TWO!)

In October, Botswana President Seretse Khama Ian Khama visited my NGO to help us with our food security project. During his visit, we tripled the size of our garden, enabling us to better feed the orphans and vulnerable children that attend our preschool as well as having enough produce to feed the home-based care patients. Wow.


In July, I hosted an event at my NGO for Former President George W. Bush and First Lady Laura Bush. This event challenged me in ways I could never adequately express and opened my heart and  freed my mind in truly remarkable ways. Plus, it was an incredible honor.

3. Cassie's Visit

One of my very best friends boarded a plane and came all the way to visit me. We had the most ridiculous time - full of all the misadventures that I could expect when the two of us get together. We traversed the country (or at least half of it), saw some uniquely African sights, and had a whole lot of fun along the way. Sing-a-longs karaoke style included.



2. Falling in Love

Sometimes you have to travel halfway around the world and risk everything to find the life you have always wanted. That's what happened to me. In coming here and in sticking it out, I fell in love. I fell in love with a new country, I fell in love with development work, I re-fell in love with my home country, and I just plain fell in love with the most amazing man. I never knew I had the capacity to love and be loved like this. No matter what happens, I will forever be grateful for my heart expanding so much.

And finally....

Drumroll...

The number one spot on the "Top 12 of Twenty-12" list...

1. My Family's Visit!!!

In August, my family came to visit me! Nothing could compare to the moment I saw them step off the plane except, maybe, the moment I got to hug them all after so long. And then having them experience my life and share in this crazy Peace Corps adventure was beyond compare. Not to mention all of the new things we got to see and do together. It was a trip of a lifetime - for me, for them, and for everyone they got to meet along the way. There is nothing that could have compared to that time together. (Plus they brought me enough coffee to last me the rest of my service!)

Goodbye 2012, Hello 2013!

My boyfriend and I often joke that 2012 was "the year of the Angry Bird", mostly because that's when he introduced the game to me and when we set to work mastering every level of every version we could find. But, if I am being honest in reflecting over the past year, I would say it would more aptly be referred to as "the year of love". It was the year that I fell in love with Botswana, the year that I recognized all that I love about home and my work and myself, and the year when I learned how to love and be loved more fully. It was a truly special year. I can only hope that 2013 can be filled with so much love... and I can hardly wait to see what's next in the next 365 days! Wishing you and yours a very happy, healthy, and fun 2013! Happy new year!

From our heart to yours... love.

Life of Pi: A Quote and an Identity Shift

In honor of having finally read Life of Pi this year, and heading out to see the film later today, I decided to share a quote from the book that has continued to resonate with me...

“It is true that those we meet can change us, sometimes so profoundly that we are not the same afterwards, even unto our names.” 


My name in Setswana, as I have mentioned in my blog before, is Kamogelo. That is as much a part of my identity now as being Tija. Or being American. Or having curly hair. Had you asked me when I first arrived in Botswana if I would identify so much with this new name as I do now, I would have said a resounding no. But now, after nearly two years here, it is a part of me, just as the people that I have met and who have profoundly changed me. I will always be Tija but now I will proudly carry Kamogelo with me for the rest of my days.

Christmukkah in Botswana

This year I had a very special Christmas and Hanukkah. This was primarily because of my incredible boyfriend, who orchestrated some of the sweetest acts and set out to ensure that joy and fun and all that is merry came true throughout the festive season. (Insert "awww" here. It's deserved.)

I was away on a trip to the Okavango Delta for the first two nights of Hanukkah. I was sad to miss them but decided that a once-in-a-lifetime trip with a couple dozen of my friends was well worth it so I headed north.

Early in the morning on day three of Hanukkah, I began the trek homeward. My boyfriend picked me up from an arbitrary bus stop along the way and seemed giddy beyond what would be normal for seeing me (not that I complained). We had agreed to celebrate Hanukkah together (his first ever!) but I assumed my Humanist boyfriend could not be harboring such excitement over Hanukkah... could he? The answer is YES. Whole-heartedly yes.

When we got home, he rushed to the tree (yes, we had a Christmas tree) and pulled out some presents. He was basically jumping up and down. His excitement made me boil over too. Then I looked at the presents and saw little hand-written cards with quotes and riddles on them and with little pictures in the upper corner of a menorah with lit candles that corresponded to the day. This first present was from the first night of Hanukkah (one lit candle) and the one beneath it the second (two candles). He then told me that he learned the prayers and lit candles for us for the two nights that I had missed. I was speechless. All my words were replaced with feelings of love and surprise. How adorable of a man is he?! I kept thinking. I hugged him and hugged him and couldn't stop smiling. My boyfriend celebrated Hanukkah even in my absence and he went a thousand extra miles to make sure this year's was sweet and special, just like him.

For the next six nights, we lit candles together and opened presents - each one better than the next. I saved his cards and re-read them every day. I taught him a little about the holiday and he practiced the prayers until he got them just right (even my dad's prayer). I hadn't expected this. It was the most precious thing and one of my favorite Hanukkah's to date.

On the last night of Hanukkah, my boyfriend, his sister, and I jumped into the car and drove three hours south to Rustenburg, South Africa for some high-intensity Christmas shopping, some McDonalds, and to watch The Hobbit in 3D. It was a ridiculous roadtrip but extremely entertaining all the while. We had a lot of laughs and missions were definitely accomplished. The car came home packed to the brim with gifts and our tummies with cheeseburgers.

And, finally, the time came for the Christmas holiday. We had planned to go to Mozambique for Christmas and New Years but had a change of heart and decided to spend the holidays with my boyfriend's family in his home village of Mahalapye. This was the first Christmas he would spend with his family since 2008, made even more special because his father would be coming from Malaysia (where he and his wife, my boyfriend's stepmom, live). There would be many of us there to celebrate and I was promised lots of food, fun, and family. I was definitely not disappointed!

We were greeted by my boyfriend's mom, dad (stepdad), sister, sister's boyfriend, aunts, uncles, cousins, and a farm-full of animals. It felt like a homecoming of sorts - encapsulated by excitement and enthusiasm and a little joyful nervousness. We spent the evening decorating the Christmas tree, baking, and finishing wrapping presents. There was a penetrable warmth to it (and not just because it was so so hot out). 

The following days were spent doing so many fun things with my boyfriend and his family. Of the highlights were hiking a hill overlooking the village and seeing volcanic rock, gathering pottery pieces from spring hare holes, hunting for quartz crystals with my Indiana Jones-like boyfriend, and playing with the animals on the farm (especially feeding the pigs!). Here are some photographs of the fun:

And, of course, there was Christmas day with the family. Opening presents, particularly watching the faces of the two youngest (Thalia and Learnmore) light up with every gift they received. It was magical and brought me back to a time when I was also as excited about a nerd candy rope. Not going to lie, it's a beautiful place to find yourself. Christmas day also included more food than any one person could possibly eat (including an entire table of savory snacks and a table of treats that held cookies I helped decorate and the traditional Christmas Cake that my boyfriend and I were prized with adorning this year). 

It was a wonderful month-long holiday spectacular. Truly, honestly, and really. It contained all the key components of the most magical of holidays. It had joy and surprise and fun and adventure and love and family. I am so grateful to this amazing man in my life for orchestrating it and for making the season just a little happier, especially since I had to spend it so far from home. (But at least I got to chat with my mom and sister ample times throughout the holiday! YAY!) And, if I'm being candid, it was one of the first fully happy Christmas season I've had since losing my dad. For that, I'm eternally grateful. Once again, hooray for happy holidays!

"The End of the World"

Today, 21 December 2012, was supposed to be the end of the world. Or at least that was the clamor back in the states. This "Doomsday" was hardly spoken of in Botswana and life continued as normal. Why? Why didn't the Batswana prepare? Store food and water and fret away in their homes like their counterparts in America? Well, probably, as Mental Floss (an online website that boasts it is "the place where knowledge junkies get their fix") states, the Mayan calendar actually continues for 70 octillion years beyond today. They site David Stuart, a professor of Mesoamerican art at the University of Texas at Austin, in stating that Westerners are the ones who came up with the doomsday theory. "'The Maya never said anything about the end of the world or anything about a great change in the universe on that date,' Stuart said." So there you have it folks! And, if you don't believe that guy, take it from me... I'm alive and well on 12/21/12! So good for you if you hoarded and saved because now you have extra stuff to share with those less fortunate this holiday season. And hip hip hooooooray for the world not undergoing any massive devastation (outside the norm... war, famine, and the like) because this means we all get to go on living another day. Lets make the most of our "extra" time... hug someone today and tomorrow and the next day... you get the point! Happy day!

"Deep in the heart of Africa"

The other day, I went to see a film with my boyfriend. We were just settling in with our popcorn and astros when a preview for the new movie "Zambezia" came on. (Zambezia... as in the Zambezi River in Southern Africa... as in right where I am.) The trailer opens with this line: "Far away, deep in the heart of Africa". I turned to my beloved and asked him what he thinks, as an African, when he hears things like this. He chuckled that all-encompassing chuckle when you already know the answer. He then said that he is used to it but that he thinks it sets a bad image for Africa as a continent and that the West is trying to maintain only the mystery of Africa. He thinks this is actually detrimental and a hindrance to progress here. And, honestly, I agree.

Having lived in Southern Africa for nearly two years now, I can say that the things we think of when we hear "Africa" - this ridiculously huge continent - a mystery and breed intrigue to the West exist and definitely deserve this sort of recognition. I have been told not to walk around at night because lions come in from the bush and a leisurely day on the river is peppered with the potential for hippos to lunge at you from beneath the water's surface. "Wild Africa" is real. But there is another side of it too. One that is almost exactly like life back home with big cities, high fashion, tasty restaurants, shopping malls, and air conditioned movie theaters (like the one I saw this trailer in). This almost always gets left out in the tales of Africa. Maybe if it was mentioned, people would see the potential here and come take a visit or invest or *gasp* create a life here.

But, truly, have you ever heard a movie open with "deep in the heart of the plain-lands in America" or "somewhere in the mountains of America"? No, they just show you open fields or high peaks... and then usually cut to bustling cities. Think about it. This is my PSA from "deep in the heart of Africa"...

Anecdotes for Animals (Hippo Edition)

I have been on more than my fair share of game drives. On each of these game drives, the guides share tidbits of information on the wildlife. I soak this up. Combine that with the fact that I have read and researched about all of the animals that inhabit Botswana and what you're left with is a person that could practically lead the wilderness tours herself. Yes, I am a "Botswana animals trivia nerd" and I'm not afraid to say it. This ridiculous and somewhat excessive knowledge has made me an asset on game drives, especially for those patrons who sit in the back of the vehicles and can't hear the guide properly, and hopefully in quiz nights of the future.

Last weekend, I went on a mini trip up to the Okavango Delta. We spent time on the water and surveying a number of small islands. During a nature walk, our guide told me a new and particularly entertaining anecdote about hippos that I am going to add to my repertoire, in the event that I do decide to become a guide myself... it goes like this:

"A long long time ago, when God was creating all the animals, he made the hippopotamus as an animal of the forests and plains. But the hippo was greedy and, finding plenty of food all around him and no enemies to worry about, he grew fatter and fatter and fatter. The hippo became so fat that he had great difficulty waddling down to the river for his daily drink. This caused the hippo to become envious of all the fishes that swam in the cool water and he wanted to be among them.

The hippo then went to God and asked if he could leave the land to bask in the glory of the water. God, upon hearing the request, said that the fish were very dear and that he was worried the hippo would take its great eating habits and begin to eat the fish until there wouldn't be any left. Although the hippo promised not to eat any of the fish, God untrustingly declared that the hippo must continue living on the lands.

After some time of watching the poor hippo baking in the hot hot sun, his heart softened and God went to the hippo and told him that he would allow him to live in the water if the hippo could prove that he wasn't eating the fish. The hippo then declared that he would lie in the cool of the water by day and then, each night, he would return to the land and scatter his dung on the earth with his tail so that God could see everything that the hippo had eaten and see for himself that there were no fish bones. God believed this would be proof enough that the hippo was eating only grass found on the river banks and allowed the hippo to relax in the waters during all of its days.

So, this is the way, to this very day, that the hippopotamus comes out of the water to scatter its dung as it looks to the heavens and says 'Look God, no fishes!'"