Pelegano Village Industries

I love Gabane. I believe it is a very special village and I feel privileged to call it "home". I actually take pride in it. People hear me clamor on and on about all the great things in Gabane and I am constantly inviting people to come and see and experience it all for themselves. Peace Corps Volunteers in Botswana know there is an open invitation to visit me. Among the things I share with all visitors are our community hangout, where people come to braai and relax together, and our artist colony, Pelegano Village Industries.

Pelegano Village Industries (PVI) is a community-based artist colony that houses artists and artisans and showcases their work. Included in the compound is work related to: arts and crafts (pottery, glass art, and fine arts), textiles and embroidery, manufacturing, welding fabrication, and the like. All of the products made are created locally and made by Batswana in the village. Places like this are unique in Botswana, as many of the crafts sold here are brought in from other countries (namely Zimbabwe and Kenya). At PVI, however, you can meet the craftsmen and, if you befriend the right people, try your hand at some pottery or learn a thing or two about textile paints. Watching beautiful creations come to life and chatting freely with those making them is a perfect way to spend an afternoon in Gabane. And, what's more, the proceeds from sales at PVI goes back into local projects like the one at my NGO.

I recently got the opportunity to share this unique experience with a group of fellow Peace Corps Volunteers who came to visit. Some of them were buying souvenirs as they prepare to go home to America after so long living abroad. Others tagged along to see what I had been bragging all about for so long. Regardless of their reason, no one was disappointed in coming.

The PCVs were overwhelmed by the beauty of the crafts and excited to meet the artists. The energy was palpable, both in the PVI compound and among my peers. Getting to come and see all the different crafts and the kind people that make them was exciting for them and seeing their faces light up as they frantically chose items to take home with them was rejuvenating for me.

This is why I rave about Gabane - it is a special place. Now these PCVs get one of the many reasons why I love my village. Those staying in Botswana will be back... with friends (and more pula)!

Students Learn About Life In The Village

A local friend of mine, who is a teacher at an international school in Gaborone, came to me a few weeks back and told me about a unit her class was doing on "children around the world". The aim of the unit was to teach her students about difference and similarities among children in the far reaches of the globe. This lesson was exceptionally pertinent to this class, as her students hail from many continents (all, however, seeming to come from some privilege). She expressed that she wanted her class to learn more about the children in Botswana, of which many had no direct knowledge, and to gain some sense of civil responsibility. We decided that the best way forward was for her class to come to the OVC Pre-School at my NGO and spend a day playing and interacting with the children.

In the weeks leading up to the event, my friend explained to her class about "orphan and vulnerable children status", what life was like in the village as compared to the capital city, the nature of giving back, and the magnitude of even small efforts for those who have so little. In this spirit, her class put on a bake sale to raise money to donate to my NGO and held a drive for clothes, games, toys, and other sundries.

When the day of the event came, the students arrived in a combi followed by a truck full of their collections. It was like Christmas morning for our center! They brought so many things that the staff and children both burst into tears. One by one, the visiting students took giant packages from the truck and laid them before us. It was unmatched by any other donation. In all the time I have been here, I haven't seen such a display of love and generosity. And, I have to state, that since the gifts were brought to our center, the children have been playing with them and learning so much (they have even learned how to do puzzles!). It's been so exciting for all of us.

After some opening remarks by our Coordinator, the children were free to interact and get to know one another.

The visiting students and our children buddied up to either play on the gym equipment outside, to color pictures, or to play soccer or other games in the yard. It was a day full of insurmountable laughter and one that I imagine will not soon be forgotten by anyone present.

Here are pictures from the day's festivities:

Ultimately, this day of fun was one that expanded the hearts and minds of everyone involved. It ended up being more than just a day within a unit for the visiting classroom but encompassed a world of giving of time, resources, things, and of love. Both sets of students learned about gratitude. And we learned that, despite circumstance, we really aren't all that different. After all, everyone likes a good time!

Mirror, Mirror

Mma Leburu:  "Kamogelo, will you please bring your camera to the center tomorrow?"

Me:  "Of course. But why? What are we taking pictures of?"

Mma Leburu:  "I want to show the kids what they look like. They need to learn how to identify themselves."

Me:  "Ooooook? Explain..."

And this is how I learned that most of the orphans that attend my NGO's pre-school don't know what they, themselves, look like. The walls of their homes don't have mirrors to look into and having a personal camera is something they could never imagine. Outside of a fluke reflection of themselves in a passing window, the children have never seen themselves before.

When I took their individual pictures the following day and showed them, their faces lit up in awe and amazement. They would look at me and then look at the picture and then smile huge smiles as they pointed at themselves and called their friends over to see too. Afterwards, I took a series of group pictures of all the kids in the classroom. When it came to the group pictures, the kids had an easier time pointing out their friends than finding themselves. It was like a "Where's Waldo" game but only this time the ever-hiding Waldo was them.

Knowing what you look like is something we all take for granted. At least I did. Like many of my friends, I had floor-length mirrors growing up and could easily nit-pick on the details of my physique, which I knew all too well. Coming to Botswana, this changed drastically. It took a while to adjust to having only a small face-sized mirror and rarely knowing how I looked. But I gave up worrying about a lot of things and I adapted to a simpler life. I now know that even my small mirror is more than what most have here. Oh the things we take for granted...

I told this story and my recent realization to a generous man who stopped by my NGO today. He has agreed to donate mirrors (among other things) to hang at the center so the children can see themselves and begin to recognize who they are. I'll be honest, I can't wait to watch them the first time they witness their own movements. It's going to be a big biiiiiiig day!

You Know... "The Really Fast Scary Train"!

Every so often, something happens here that makes me smile and reminds me that I have once lived in a different world. Today held one such event...

While chatting with the ladies from my NGO about all the great things that Botswana has to offer (and which they readily admitted to not taking advantage of despite proximity and their renowned splendor) - the Okavango Delta, the CKGR, Victoria Falls - the subject of the new amusement park that is just outside Gaborone came up. They were talking about the wave pool and the rides and saying how it could be a tourist attraction too and, with proud smiles on their faces, stating that they had actually been there. They then started talking about "the really fast scary train". I was looking at them absolutely confused. What in the world are these crazy ladies talking about?! What is a "really fast scary train"?! How did we transition to this?! And then it dawned on me. They were talking about the roller-coaster that was constructed last year! A "really fast scary train" is a roller-coaster! Ta-dah! I burst out laughing once I figured it out because it was the most precious thing ever and because I could understand why they were calling it that from what I can only imagine is a really awkward translation from Setswana. It's new, they've never seen one before, and their description fit the bill! Oh cultural and linguistic barriers, how you constantly make me smile!

Names and Meanings

The other day, I was at the clinic working with the home-based care nurse on a project, discussing the mobile clinic, and brainstorming future health trainings to do for the community. I spend a fair bit of time working with this nurse on various projects and have gotten close with her so mornings spent in this manner have become commonplace.

In the midst of a particularly insightful and hot debate on continued HIV counseling, she stopped and asked me what my "other name" means. (Note: in Botswana, it is common for people to have two first names and they go by both depending on the situation and/or preference. One is their Setswana name and their "other name" is their Westernized name.) I explained that my name didn't have a particular definition but that it was a combination of my parents' names and I proceeded to tell her the story of how my name came about. She looked at me questioning. She then inquired further - "How did you learn your name when you were young? Isn't it just random letters put together with no reason and no meaning then? That must have been confusing." I hadn't thought of it that way before.

Setswana names all have a meaning and children are often named for very particular reasons. For example, I have friends that are sisters. The first is a young girl named Neo, or "gift", and the second is another girl named Gape, or "again". Neo was named because a mother's first child is a gift and obviously Gape was named because the mother had another baby girl... Again!? Or take my Setswana name, Kamogelo, which means "you are welcome". My host family named me that because they were welcoming me into their home when I first arrived in Botswana.

Similarly, Batswana's "other names" are drawn primarily from the Bible. There are many girls named Esther and boys named Moses. There is something to point towards with each name and some sort of message or meaning behind them.

I told the nurse that my name did not have a meaning but that I don't remember having any problem learning my name when I was young. It was always just my name and pointed to me when said. After leaving the clinic, however, I continued to ponder this. Today, four days after this conversation, I have decided that my name means "Of Tina and Jeffrey".  I have also decided that "Westernized names" have a broader definition than Batswana can possibly imagine right now. It means creativity and uniqueness. My name is encompassed in that.

Happy Tuesday tidbit about Botswana - cultural exchange to both Batswana and Americans!

Mutli-Cultural Exchange

The other day, I was sitting around talking with a bunch of friends. We were having a staunch debate on religion and politics and sharing our individual insights. During this conversation, it dawned on us that no two people in the room were the same. Now, this may seem obvious but I mean this on a much more deliberate level. When we looked around the room, no two of us were from the same country or of the same faith or shared nearly the same skin-tone (harhar). We had all been raised and lived very different lives and now were sitting together and peacefully discussing some very controversial issues. We were, quite literally, an international group by every sense of the term - multi-cultural, multi-religious, and so on. We had representatives from America, Botswana, Bangladesh, Mauritius, Ireland, and more. We had Hindus, Muslims, Jews, Christians, Catholics, and Athiests. We had a hodge-podge combination of folks that honestly sounded like it should be the start of a joke - "A Motswana, an Indian, and an Irish girl walk into a bar...". I mention this because I think it is interesting and because I never thought that, when I came to Peace Corps, I would be surrounded by people from so many walks of life. I expected to meet locals and learn their culture and gain some sort of African experience that was different from my own. And, of course, this has happened and I have made some amazing friends in my local community along the way. But I have also made friends with fellow do-gooders and with ex-pats and with others who have chosen to settle in Botswana. These relationships have made my experience even more rich and complex and educational. I have truly had some remarkable and eye-opening conversations with this group that have broadened my worldview and taught me so much about myself, my beliefs, and about the global community. I am extremely grateful for my random and wonderful group of friends.

Weight and Happiness

Today, while eating dikgobe in the kitchen with the NGO's cooks, one of them asked me if I was happy. I responded in the affirmative, citing the fact that I was among charming people, eating one of my favorite dishes, and that great things have abound as of late. I then inquired as to why she asked. She responded that I have lost some weight and it has caused her to worry that it might mean I am no longer happy in Gabane. (Insert a confused look then a chuckle from me.) I explained to her that my happiness and my weight are not connected (thank goodness) and that I am exceedingly happy and, at the same time, trying to get myself back in shape. (Insert a bemused look from her.)

Now let me explain: In Botswana, they believe that the heavier you are, the happier you are. They expect people to gain significant weight when great things happen in their lives, like a marriage or a promotion. It is a good thing. Batswana have often commented on my rise to pudginess as a positive thing and would clamor about how beautiful I had become while living here. (Oh Kamogelo, you are getting fat! You are so happy and beautiful! You love Botswana! and then they would smile and cheer.)

Being raised in America, however, I have thought the opposite (that is, when I think about weight at all - Having only one mirror in my house and having that mirror be only big enough to see my face has really eliminated my concern over appearance.) I was raised in a culture where slim and slendor is desirable. I have turned up my nose at this sentiment throughout my life because I feel like you only live once so you should have that mac and cheese if it makes you smile. I think there's probably a better compromise between the American view, my own, and that of the Batswana.

All of this being said, I recently started a physical fitness routine (because that is what it is for - fitness). I hadn't personally noticed much change in my physique but apparently the cooks at the NGO have! This was something that I had to explain to them - the separation of weight and happiness. They seemed to understand, but with trepidation, and only after I hugged them and danced around with the kids and showed them how genuinely happy I am. I have a feeling that there will be another teaching moment in this when I get back to America...

Integration

During an NGO sector meeting during Mid-Service Training (MST), we spent some time discussing integration. Each of us went around and discussed how integrated into our communities we felt. Most said they were "integrated"and stated that people knew who they were and said hello to them as they passed them in their villages. Our Program Manager then posed to the group that "integration" is a two-way street and asked how well we knew our neighbors. The group was mostly silent after she said that. Although I feel that I have always been open and genuinely cared to know the people in my community, I took this to heart. I internalized it and I made the conscious decision to really get to know the people that I work with and that I see around my community.

Since I made that vow with myself, I feel increasingly more integrated. I truly and deeply know the people that I interact with and have a newfound respect and empathy for them. I know about their home lives - the good and the bad - and their children's and grandchildren's lives. In many instances now, I have been asked to accompany them to medical appointments and have been invited on close family outings and really feel like a part of their families (not just in word but in action and deed). My relationships with the people in my community have taken a big leap forward just by my asking questions and then sitting quietly and listening to them tell their stories. Our relationships are built on much more and are no longer "surface". Yes, I think that part of this is because I had already built a trust in the months before, but I can feel a real sense of togetherness with my community now. We genuinely know each other and are a part of each other's lives. It's reciprocal and truly meaningful. I will be forever grateful to my Program Manager for challenging us to take our integration one step further.

Office Supplies

When my family came to visit, my mom brought with her a ton of office supplies to donate to my NGO. Things she brought included: pens, paper and binder clips, a stapler, scissors, a printer cable, and highlighters (among others). The ladies from my NGO were ecstatic! They took inventory of everything, sing-songing their names and trying a sampling of the new supplies out along the way. It was a supply-lover's dream.

Since then, every so often one of the ladies will call me over and ask what something is. Of particular note were the highlighters. One afternoon, I noticed the Center Coordinator laboriously underlining (with a ruler no less) a portion of a document that was needed to complete a report. I went and grabbed one of our new highlighters and brought it to her. She looked at me puzzled and asked what to do with it. She let out the biggest and loudest squeal I have ever heard when I started highlighting the paragraph she had previously been underlining. She then said she had never seen a highlighter before and was curious as to what it was when they were going though the supplies initially. She was beyond excited. I have since seen her using the highlighter in ways reminiscent of a high school AP History student - highlighting literally everything!

After realizing that the staff didn't know what all the supplies were, despite their not saying it, I have gone through every single item with them and shown them its use. They were flabbergasted and amazed that so many contraptions exist. Smiles literally beaming off of their faces.

Today we finalized a huge report we were submitting to a funder. We had stapled the different packets and I put an old paper clip I found on the desk on the entire bundle to hold it together. I left the packaged report and went to have a quick meeting before going to deliver it. When I returned, the ladies had replaced the paper clip with a binder clip and had used a variety of other supplies to really spruce it up. When I mentioned how great the report looked and how proud I was to go with them to submit it, they grinned and mentioned the new supplies and how they were able to use them. It was a simple moment but one that I was really happy to be a part of. 

A Month Worth of Updates

I realized last night that I have been very one-tracked in my updates lately and that I have been missing the opportunity to share a lot of great experiences and memories. This post is going to be all about catching up on some of those for you...

A Peace Corps Wedding

Two friends from my group, Dan and Theresa, fell in love during our pre-service training and decided to spend the rest of their lives together. Recently, in front of a few of their closest friends, in a country far away from home, the two tied the knot and became Mr. and Mrs. We had the opportunity to share their union by throwing them a wedding reception. Although our party was quaint and very "PCV", we went all out with the traditions - cutting the cake, the first dance, a champagne toast. This day and their marriage is special to everyone in the Bots 10 group because we have become family over the passed year. It is truly special when two people can find love and, for us, it's even more special because our "family" actually became family. So, for all of us in the group, this was a night that we will remember forever.

"Cultural Exchange": Wedding Style

There was recently another Peace Corps wedding that was truly special to me. Two dear friends from my old village of Kumakwane joined names on the 5th of May.

Mary, the other PCV from my beloved village, and Fila, my neighbor, became Mr. and Mrs. Konege, in front of family, friends, and fellow PCVs, showing the other side of finding the love of your life in the most unexpected of places.

Mary and Fila met when Mary first arrived at site in June 2010 and it didn't take long for them to fall in love. And I had the great honor and privilege of spending nearly eight months watching them, laughing with them, and sharing experiences with them. They are among the two best people that I have ever met. Mary, with her humor and wit, and Fila with his huge smile are a match made in heaven.

Their wedding day was every bit as special as they are. A number of other PCVs and I gathered in Kumakwane to share the day. The ceremony took place in Fila's church and was one of the more fun experiences I have ever had. The entirety of the service was dancing and singing - it felt like a giant party! Afterwards, we all went back to Fila's family's house and had a meal and listened to speeches and danced! Although the entire day was amazing and so much fun, I have to say that the biggest blessing of it all was that Mary's parents were able to make the journey to be here for it! This is so heartwarming because Mary's parents had not been on a vacation in thirty years and Mary's mom had never been on an airplane before! Having them there made a truly wonderful day all the more exceptional!

Goodbyes

The Bots 9 group is getting ready to leave the country next week. This is a truly bittersweet time for all of us. Watching them pack their things is emotional for those of us left behind, as they have become our friends and support system over the passed year (and forces us to examine our own service and what time we have left). It is even more bittersweet for them, as they have to say goodbye to their villages, their homes, and the people they have lived with, worked alongside, and grown to love.

Last weekend I had the opportunity to go to my friend Paco's very rural village called Medie to be part of his going away party. It was so touching to watch him interact with his village and to see how much they cherished him.

The event started out at the kgotla, with a huge agenda planned. It looked as if they entire village came out to share in the festivities! There were speeches made; entertainment and performances by the students at the school he worked at, the local support group, and the traditional dancers; gifts given; and tears shed. After the program, everyone went to the school for a meal and then continued well into the night (and, for some, the early hours of the morning) with a bonfire, music, dancing, and a braai. For me, being able to see how other PCVs live and witness how much they care about my friend, was amazing. I can only hope that my village(s) will care about me as much. It was beautiful to watch.

Goodbye Hello

My Bots 10 family recently lost another PCV. This is a happy goodbye, however, as our dear friend Maggie accepted an amazing job offer (and career opportunity) in her home town. Maggie has been an amazing volunteer, working with the disabled and disadvantaged population in Botswana and making a significant difference in her time here. While we are sad to see her go and realize what an asset Botswana will be missing, we are also excited for her and what this means for her future. Plus, we're family now so we'll always always always be close!

Sadly, Maggie had three cats that she had to leave behind in Botswana. They were her buddies and, I think, made leaving even more difficult. She has found them loving new homes with new PCVs from Bots 12 (to be sworn-in in two weeks!!!). These new homes, however, are not available until the Bots 12s go to their sites sooooooooo the three kitties are living at my house until then. Their names are Sisi (black mama cat), Pudi (colorful critter), and Mokibikibi (fluffy guy). They have been a handful, especially since I've never been much of a cat person, but we're getting along well and are starting to figure each other out. And, I have to admit, it's been kind of fun having animals in my life again, even for a while, because they really do give you all sorts of love.

My NGO

This, specifically, is not an update. It is more of an "I have the best NGO and the kids are super cute" portion. These are a few of my favorite kids from the "older group", meaning they are 5 and 6-years-old. From left to right, you will see: Boitumelo, Shamiso, Abigail, Refilwe, and Kamogelo. They are HYSTERICAL and I am really having fun playing with them and helping them along.

Also, yesterday, a friend of mine came to the NGO to see the kids and learn more about what life is like in the village (he is from Mauritius and living in Gaborone). He spent the day playing with the kids, learning about orphans and vulnerable children in the community (including what he can do to help), and getting the village experience. I was grateful to have him come because it made the day so special for the kids. They don't often get visitors  and part of my mission here is to show the kids that they are loved and that people care to know about them. His coming and being so hands-on with the kids did exactly that. The staff and children welcomed him with open arms and it was a wonderful time for all of us. I hope to have more people come and have a similar experience.

Brrrrrrrrrrrrr It's Cold Out Here: Winter Clothes for All!

Another wonderful thing happened at my NGO yesterday... They got winter clothes!

My friend and fellow PCV, Carolynn, is working with a highly developed Scout troop in Gaborone. As part of their mission, they have been collecting winter clothing to donate to orphans and vulnerable children around their community. Carolynn called me a week ago and asked if we were in need and I said yes and explained the harsh reality for the children at our center. After our talk, I sat with the women from my NGO and explained that we might get a donation of winter clothes and the women literally started crying tears of joy. A week later, the children of Gabane Community Home-Based Care were among those that benefited from the Scout troop's generosity! We can now all sleep soundly at night knowing that these wonderful children will be warm and cozy and safe from the cold cold winter! What a blessing! These kids' lives were made infinitely better because of the kindness of otheres! Ke a leboga thata thata!

...... And there you have it folks! Just a few of my many updates on some of the wonderful things happening in my life!

By the way, still no water, still no house... And the house we thought we had identified is a bust. We're back to scouring the village for houses without curtains (the "sure sign" that it's vacant and for rent)! Wish me luck!

Oh This Life...

Last Monday I received a notice pushed under my front door from the Botswana Water Utilities Corporation stating that my water supply would be disconnected due to non-payment. I went over to my kitchen faucet to see if my water had already been turned off and, sure enough, after about four seconds it fizzled out. I went to another faucet and the same thing happened. I ran outside to check my tap and no water. Sigh. I tried calling my landlord (who is responsible for paying these bills with the rent check given to him from the government) but he did not answer. I then called my DAC (who is the government official that pays my rent etc) and also Peace Corps - both stated they would investigate the matter and get back to me. No news back from either on Monday or on Tuesday. On Wednesday, someone from my NGO managed to reach my landlord, who said the sizable bill was from the previous tenant and that he did not have the money to pay the bill in full for a couple months. (Translation: No water for Tija for a couple months.) Big sigh. I spoke to Peace Corps about this later that day and they said they would negotiate with the landlord and the Water Utilities Corporation and get back to me. It has now been a week and a half without water (although it has been dripping slowly out from the "hot tap" for a few minutes at a time - perhaps it is stored in my geyser for "safe-keeping" - so I am able to splash water on things to wash them and do basics like brush my teeth and use the toilet every couple of hours). I am still waiting to hear if my water will be turned back on or if I will have to move houses in Gabane (which PC said may happen if a solution is not reached with expediency) or what my future holds. For now, it seems my future includes carrying my buckets around to the neighbors to beg for water and traveling to Gaborone to steal baths from my generous friends. I will update everyone on the situation when I hear more - fingers crossed that it is soon!

P.s. As I type this, my electricity just went out... Now I am at no water and no electricity. Good thing I have a good sense of humor! Oh this life... TIA!

Food for Thought: What Is Africa?

The other night I went to an open mic night at a bar in Gaborone. There were people reciting their poetry, rappers and vocalists, musicians, and comedians. It was surely a display of some of the best (and worst) of what Botswana had to offer in terms of talent. One person, in particular, caught my attention (and I found myself wanting to befriend him almost immediately).

When he approached the mic, he started belting out, in the most amazing voice, the opening notes to "The Circle of Life" ("MAAAAA ZIFENGYA MADIVIMBENGAYOOOOOO!") He then stopped suddenly and said "Why do all tales of Africa start this way?" and the audience cheered. He then went on to discuss, in poetic form, what was one of his main frustrations - that people misunderstand Africa. His examples started with the tribal music that everyone equates with Africa (which is some of the coolest music ever so I understand) and extended to an example from earlier that day when a girl studying at the University of Botswana in the capital city asked him where the elephants were. His comedic response: "Oh, sorry, they marched this morning through the streets so you missed them, best to check back again tomorrow. Or you could visit Kasane." (Note: Kasane is where the elephants live en mass, but they are definitely nowhere near the busy capital. Everyone laughed, myself included, because asking about elephants down here is quite ridiculous and funny since there's no way elephants could wander the busy streets of Gaborone. But, we realize still, that this is because we live here so we understand the reality while others don't.)  The moral of his anecdote being that people abroad have a vision of what Africa is - full of mud huts and wild animals - and fail to realize that it is also civilized and developing rapidly.

Listening to his monologue made me think: What did I think Africa was like before I came? How has this notion changed? Could beliefs like this be keeping Africa from moving forward and gaining a foothold in the global community? What connotations evolve from this way of thinking? How do we educate people about this other side of Africa without losing all the support received for necessary development? Would tourism flourish if people realized there was a developed side too? What would happen to those children and families I am working with in the villages if people started thinking Africa was "all good"? Would they benefit from a new understanding of Africa or would it be a detriment? And many many more questions... Because, yes, the stereotypes are here for a reason - they do exist - but there is also another side of life here too. The village life that most PCVs live and talk about is a completely different lifestyle than that of the capital (and the two other larger towns), which is full of multi-story buildings, traffic, shops, and youth working laboriously to bring the world up to speed about the different faces of Botswana (and Africa). I want to help dispel the rumors and share that Africa has it all - the good, the bad, and the growing. Like the man who performed at open mic night, I wish everyone could come here and have their perspectives challenged. To see both the mud huts and the towers of Botswana and to experience the quiet life of the village and the growing abundance of the capital. The juxtaposition is unlike anything else I have experienced.

Losing Another Patient: Prayer Service and Mourning

About a month ago I blogged about losing a young girl to AIDS. She had waited too long to be tested for HIV and died within a few weeks of finding out her status. It was a tragic loss but also one that has motivated me to make significant efforts in getting people tested early and often. Hopefully her death won't be in vain.

Recently, we lost another patient from our home-based care program. She was an older woman, a grandmother, who was both HIV+ and diabetic. We had been transporting her to medical appointments for a long time and helping the family with her other medical needs. Sadly, her condition had deteriorated to the point where she slept on a mattress on the floor because her family could not get her onto the bed and she could no longer do anything for herself. She died with her large family by her side.

As is tradition here, the week preceding the Saturday burial was filled with prayer services. These are gatherings where friends and villagers come together each night to pay their respect to the family and the deceased. There is often wailing tears by those closest, prayers made by the guests, and some of the most beautiful singing you will hear anywhere. The prayer services for this sweet grandmother was no different. I sat among the women, helping to knead the dough for the diphaphatha that would be served, and listened to their voices fill the air. There has hardly been a moment in my life where I have been filled with more emotion. The tears of so many over the loss were heartbreaking but the togetherness of the community was palpable. By the end of the first night, I had met countless new people, cried alongside a small child (a grandchild perhaps?), offered a blessing to the family, was in awe, and felt a range of emotions that seemed in perfect contrast to the last.

Sadly, after so many losses in this country, these services run like a well-oiled machine - every person has a role and they all gather to make sure it is fulfilled for the family. There are people leading the services, those making the bread and tea and the greetings being given and songs being sang. The loss aside, they are a beautiful testimony to the people of Botswana and their sense of community. I am grateful for being allowed to be a witness to it.

International Cuisine

Yesterday, my boyfriend (who is from Botswana) took me to a little nook nestled in the capital for lunch. Along with having delicious food, the deli also had a little market. While we were waiting for our food, I decided to peruse the shelves and see what they had. To my shock, awe, and excitement, I saw an array of things that I have been missing over the passed year. They had things like tahini, grape leaves, shells, and black beans. Nearly jumping out of my skin, I went back to the table to revel in my happiness. I think he was humored by my elation and entertained me for some time while I gushed. And then he asked me something that made me pause. He asked me how I knew of all these foods if I wasn't Greek or Italian or so on. My immediate thought was because, but then I had to stop and think about it. I have never given the country of origin of my favorite foods much thought before or, for that matter, why or how I know (and love) them. In America, the variety was always so available and almost everyone knew about international cuisine, either from eating it or having seen the different restaurants scattered all over the place. We have so many options that they become commonplace. I have always had access to all sorts of foods. It's not the same in Botswana. Even in the major cities, the "variety" is limited to Setswana food, Indian (because of a large Indian population here), Chinese (same reason), and a couple different "Western" foods (like KFC, pizza, and burgers). Given this, how would anyone who hasn't had access to it learn about a food as strange as grape leaves? And what do you do with this odd sauce called tahini? Needless to say, this spurred an interesting conversation about food (and foodies) from around the world and the differences in how cultures relate to food. And, in the end, I foresee it inspiring me to cook him a bunch of different foods that he's never had the chance to try. Who knows, maybe one will even be his new favorite? Food: bringing people closer one meal at a time.

Two Absolutely Adorable Revelations of Children in Bots

I want to share a couple things that I have noticed in my time here. They are in reference to some absolutely adorable revelations made by kids here that I bet you'd never think of. Prepare to say "awww"!

Flush Toilets

This is a pit latrine. It is essentially the same sort of pit latrine that is found all over Botswana. For many of my readers, it is most easily defined as an outhouse. In America, this sort of toilet is very uncommon (except at music festivals or major outdoor events when we set up porta-pottys). Here, however, it is very widespread, as many families do not have indoor plumbing. Totally normal. 

This is a flush toilet. It is essentially the same sort of flush toilet that is found all over the United States. It has also been adopted around the globe, including in Botswana. Most households that have running water and indoor plumbing have similar toilets. Both of my homes in Botswana were among those with flush toilets (albeit with their own idiosyncrasies - another story). Because I am so accustomed to having a flush toilet, I thought nothing of it when the kids that came over to my house asked to use the toilet. At first, they would creep into my bathroom and sit on it, do their business, and leave without flushing. After a while, I figured this out and decided to show them how to flush. The first time I flushed the toilet, the kids went running out of the bathroom screaming. They were scared of the sound and didn't want to stick around to find out what that sound indicated. This made me giggle. Once they got used to it, however, they found the flushing to be so so so aweeesssoooommmeeee! And then the kids would venture into the bathroom, to use the facilities I assumed, and then I wouldn't see them again for fifteen or so minutes. But I would hear the toilet flush a half dozen times at least. They were absolutely fascinated by the flushing action, watching the water spin around and go down the drain then fill back up again. It was almost like a game. Now, this could be misinterpreted as a fun game or entertainment and perhaps not quite the revelation I imagined. I asked at my new NGO if that was something they dealt with too when the youngest kids (around 3 or 4-years-old) started coming to the preschool for the first time. My question was met with a resounding YES. It turns out that this humorous process was not just followed by the Kums Kids but rather by kids all over Botswana that are being introduced, for their very first time, to the magic and wonderment of the flush toilet.

Escalators

One day, when I was still living in Kumakwane, I heard a story from the other PCV that lived in the village of three little girls who were very dressed up and excited about something. When she asked them what they were so excited about, they responded (in that soft-spoken adorable way that only little children can) that they were going to Gaborone to see the "flying stairs". Of course, the image of stairs with wings on it were the first things that crossed her mind. Where were these mythical stairs? She inquired further. They told her that the new mall at the bus rank had flying stairs and that they were getting to go to Gabs to ride them. It suddenly dawned on her that they were referring to the escalator that had recently been put in. Wow. How precious!

So there you have it - two absolutely adorable revelations made by children in Botswana. Things we take for granted having grown up with them but which are amazing discoveries here.

Perplexing Botswana Observation #983

I am from the Pacific Northwest. I am very familiar with umbrellas and their function. Umbrellas keep you dry when it's raining. Or at least that's what I thought... Perplexing Botswana Observation #983 is that umbrellas are for shielding you from the sun and NOT the rain.

Since it started getting ridiculously hot in October, I have seen my fair share of people walking around with umbrellas. They have acted as portable shade from the blazing hot sun. I thought to myself "genius!" and wondered if they could figure out portable air conditioners as well. It wasn't until a few days ago that I realized it was actually the only thing the umbrellas were used for.

A few days ago, much to my merriment, it rained. I had a meeting in another village so I grabbed my umbrella and started walking towards the bus stop. Halfway down the road I realized that I was the only person with an umbrella. I'm usually the only person without one, choosing to enjoy the sunshine (like a true Seattlite), and now that it's raining, I am again alone. This seemed so strange to me. Either I have this backwards or they do, right? Well, no, we probably both have this right given where we come from. I lived in Seattle, where sunbreaks were a blessing and rain somewhat common and they are from Botswana where it rains in the summer when the sun is so hot that it scorches your skin. Obviously we have found our own very valuable uses for the umbrella. Even still, it baffles and humors me. I think I'm going to just carry an umbrella around all the time (or never?). Oh Botswana, you continue to surprise me!

Photo Courtesy of Marion and Tish Mobley

Transportation in Botswana

I have been asked to share a bit more about the intricacies of my every day life. I must oblige. Some things, I'm sure, will seem strange and different (as they did to me too when I first arrived), while others will seem so mundane and normal that you might be surprised I'm living in Africa. I think it will be a pretty interesting cultural exchange with people from home so that you can learn a bit more about life here! So I am going to start to post information about the simple things that make up my life. First up: transportation!

As a Peace Corps Volunteer, you are not allowed to drive during service (or ride a bicycle without a helmet). Doing so is grounds for administrative separation. Yikes! As such, PCVs have to utilize public transportation to get around the country. Here are some of the many ways we get around:

Walking! We walk everywhere! It is the easiest and cheapest mode of transportation available. Plus, many of us live in rural villages where no form of motorized transportation exists. For example, my village is tiny. It takes about twenty minutes to walk from end-to-end and very few roads exist. (It's kind of like a nature walk every time I go anywhere! Que fun!) And, in truth, this is one way we stay somewhat active. Host country nationals, however, do not prefer this mode of transportation. (Although, as you can see, walking inside the village can be quite the chore for host country nationals!)

Hitchhiking! This is not officially condoned by Peace Corps but it is often the only way to get into or out of certain places around the country. It's also proven to be a really great way to get to know people. In the times that I have had to "hike" (as it's called in Botswana), I have met some of the most interesting people. I have met kgosis (chiefs) and people that used to work for Peace Corps and government officials and more! I've also found it to be a cheap alternative for getting around. Although you're supposed to pay the same fee as for the buses, if you chat up the driver and/or ask "Do I owe you anything for this ride?" instead of "How much do I owe you?" then you usually get the ride for free! Woot woot! On a Peace Corps budget that is a serious win!

Buses! This is the main way that Peace Corps Volunteers get between villages and across the country. There are bus stops along the three main roads in the country. (These three roads are the only way to get from point-to-point. Smaller sub-roads connect to these main roads at certain places but are often going only to a specific village or taper off into an earthen road. This means that you often have to travel well out of the way to get to a connection point or to reach your destination.) The buses are usually very very packed. People stand in the center aisle and, on more than one occasion, I've had people or their things sitting on me during the ride. In the summertime, the buses may reach excrutiating temperatures, as Batswana don't like to travel with windows open for fear of catching "flu" (yes, "flu", not "the flu" or "a cold"). I no longer think anything of traveling for 6 or more hours each way to go someplace for the weekend. Having a sweaty butt is kind of normal and no one even notices if your dress is stuck to you when you get off. It's just the way it goes now. For me, specifically, getting back to my village from the capital city (where I do my grocery shopping, banking, etc. since my village is too small to have these conveniences) can often be a chore. My village is a speck on the map (actually, it's not even on the map since it's so tiny) so buses don't always like to stop there. I have to bat my lekgoa eyelashes if the Kumakwane bus isn't at the bus rank! But, have no fear, I have yet to not make it home! :)

Combis! Combis essentially are what would happen if a mini-bus and a van had a baby. They are how you get across larger villages and towns or, if you're lucky, to a neighboring village. They are cheap (equivalent to about US 50 cents), convenient, and super fast! I kid you not, the drivers are crazy! They drive very fast and often weave in and out of cars. The reason the drivers go so fast is because they get to keep everything they make during the day above and beyond the fee they have to pay the owner of the combi. This is usually about BWP 200. That means that if they make BWP 500 during the day that they pay the owner the BWP 200 fee and they get to keep 300. It's a pretty good deal for them, a great deal for us, and it ensures we get where we need to go with expediency!

Taxis! I only take taxis when I am in Gaborone, the capital city, and I only take them if I need to get to the bus rank before the combis start running (for instance when I went to Namibia) or if I'm out with other PCVs and the combis have stopped running for the evening (which is around dark). Taxis, in general, are much more expensive and therefore a less desirable option for the Peace Corps Volunteer. But we do have a taxi driver that we call specifically when we need a ride. His name is Tendai. He's from Zimbabwe and one of the nicest people I have met since coming to Botswana. If you're ever in the area and need someone to fetch you from the airport or grab you from Linga Langa after pizza and a beer, let me know and I'll send you his number!

And my favorite... Donkey carts! After the initial shock of seeing this mode of transport when I first arrived in country, the trusty donkey cart has earned its way into my heart! The donkey cart is common among people in small villages or people who travel to "the lands". The lands are basically farming plots where people raise cattle and grow crops. The donkey cart is a cheap and convenient way for villagers to get around and to carry their harvest (or wood for the fire to warm water and cook) from the lands to their homes. It is my goal to take a ride on a donkey cart (and then feed the donkeys apples) at some point during my service!

And that concludes today's lesson on life in Botswana. I hope you've learned a thing or two about what transportation is like for Peace Corps Volunteers!

My First Botswana Book Club

I have been told that Batswana don't read. They have even gone so far as to create programs and initiatives aimed at getting the communities excited about reading but they have, for the most part, fallen short. So you can imagine my surprise when a friend of mine in the village, Lovey, came over one day and expressed her interest in reading. She said that she loved to read and asked if I had anything that I thought she might enjoy and that might challenge her. I handed her Barbara Kingsolver's The Poisonwood Bible, which I had recently re-read. I explained to her that it was about American missionaries coming to the Congo in the 1960s and it chronicles their journey there and how it ends up altering their futures. I told her that it had a different meaning for me now, after coming to Africa, than it did when I read it in high school and that many of the themes resonated with me. She left with the book, intent on finding out what I meant.

...Two days later, she told me that she wasn't sure she liked it.

...Three days after that, she told me she couldn't put it down.

...And, just a few hours ago, we had our first book club to discuss The Poisonwood Bible.

This had to have been one of the most amazing book clubs I have ever had. It was beyond interesting to hear her thoughts on the book, to listen to her talk about how her world view changed as she read, to understand her perspective on the issues, and to candidly discuss how the book affected each of us (both from an American and an African point of view).

She said she started out taken aback by certain things that were pointed out by the author, which had caused her initial judgment. Then she realized that everything she read was true but that she was so used to it that she didn't recognize it, which captivated her and caused her to think about where she came from. Because of this, she opened up to the story and the characters and grew compassionate, not only for them but also for me and my fellow PCVs in Africa who are adjusting to this new culture and way of life. This made her fall in love with it all. After this analysis, we discussed our individual perceptions of the book and then of each of our home countries. We spoke on how it feels to be in a  foreign land and completely out of your element. And then we talked even more about overcoming obstacles and growing up and how situations can lead you in the most mysterious and magical directions. It was a unique experience that opened both of our eyes to new perspectives and a whole new level of understanding.

We are picking our next book club book tomorrow. I couldn't be more excited.

The past two weeks in Bots...

A lot has happened since my last post... It is time to catch you all up on my happenings in Botswana.

In-Service Training (IST):

For a week and a half I joined my fellow Bots 10ers in a neighboring village, Mogoditshane, for what is called in-service training. Basically what that means is we continue working on our language acquisition, delve deeper into cultural issues, and participate in skills training seminars on topics such as program design and implementation, proposal writing, and monitoring and evaluation. Unofficially, it is also a time when we can reconnect with other volunteers. This second part may have been the most beneficial part of IST for me. I say this because it was an opportunity to talk with my colleagues about their experiences at site. In hearing everyone's stories, I was relieved to learn that many of us are having similar issues and dealing with the same emotions. The difficulty of working in a developing country, even one that is as seemingly progressive as Botswana, is evident in each of our stories. (Having cell phone coverage and electricity does not accurately indicate Botswana's state of development. It is merely a facade. Take this cover out of the equation and the reality is that Botswana is nascent. The challenges are very real and we have a lot to contend with and are being heavily impacted.) It was a time to share coping strategies, to learn from one another, to gain new skills and valuable insight, and then to let go of our worries and have a little fun too.

In addition to our classroom sessions, we saw movies, ate good food, drank cocktails, caught up on gossip and stories, sat in the sunshine reading magazines, watched television (mostly Animal Planet), and took long hot showers. It was all the things we had been missing out on for four months. Bonus: we were together. Although it was a little overstimulating (going from two months of solitude to constant interaction), it was so reviving to be among my friends. Along the way we have gotten closer and it truly felt like family as we roamed from room to room to visit one another. The last time we had been at that lodge, we had just arrived in country and were on our best behavior. Now we are just ourselves and that felt pretty perfect.

Also, we had another Language Proficiency Interview (LPI), which is a fancy term for language test. I didn't realize how much Setswana I had learned during lockdown. Being in my village and muddling through with the neighbor kids, the OVCs, and the rest of my community has really rubbed off on me. It felt good to be at a point where I can converse and be comfortable in Setswana. It also gave me some confidence and has encouraged me to push myself to use the language even more. Overall, not too shabby.

Puppies:

Seven puppies were born on my compound about a month and a half ago. They are ridiculously adorable and so so sweet. I've been documenting their growth through pictures and was absolutely shocked to see how big they got while I was gone at IST. They are adventurous and playful and extremely cuddly. (As I type this, there are puppies wandering into my house to explore and to get some quality snuggle time in.) They have been vaccinated and are ready to go to new homes. Three of Bots 10ers and one of the language teachers are adopting puppies so I will still get to watch them grow up over the next two years. So excited, so precious.

Local Artists and their Beautiful Work:

I went with a few friends to the neighboring village of Gabane a few days ago. There are a lot of signs on the main road for arts and crafts, pottery, local fruits, etc. I pass the village whenever I go to buy groceries and have always meant to stop and check it all out but hadn't yet so I was so excited when my visitors wanted to go too. We wandered through Gabane, stopping to greet villagers on our way to find the shops. Once there, we were welcomed by artists and potters and craftsmen alike all working on their particular trade. We got to watch as they threw local clay to make beautiful bowls and pitchers and various other sundries. It was a site to behold watching them create. (If anyone comes to visit, we will certainly be going there and you will undoubtably buy some amazing local art.)

Garden Project:

Yesterday I broke ground on a garden for the village OVCs (orphans and vulnerable children) and people infected with HIV. The garden is about the size of a football field, has amazing soil (a rarity in Botswana), and should produce a lot of food to feed all those affected by and infected with HIV. To help me with the project, a rotation of friends from the Bots 10 group are coming to my village and putting in a few days at a time. They are joining me, a few members of my NGO's staff, and a flow of community members and children. We are all getting our hands dirty in an effort to help the Kumakwane community.

These past two days have been designing a plan for the plot, which will have eight 24'X24' plots (inside a covered area) and a small fruit tree orchard beside the enclosed structure. We also spent four painstaking hours digging the initial trench system to route the underground water source and irrigate the garden. By the time we were finished, we were covered in mud, our hands blistered, and thoroughly exhausted. We are also invigorated because we are starting to see the potential come to life. Tomorrow we will plant the trees, continue digging trenches, and (hopefully) get a few beds in one or two of the plots ready for planting.

The garden is going to be a huge undertaking and it will probably take months to get it entirely put together but, in the end, it's something that will last and will sustain those in need. It's something viable, substantial, and impactful.

Evening of Cultural Exchange:

Before last night, I had never been to a bar in my village. (Actually, I'm never out after dark because the Peace Corps scared the bejesus out of us... unnecessarily it seems.) But yesterday I saw a sign on a bar that I've been curious about since I moved to site (it has monkeys painted on the side and picnic tables) that was advertising "Jazz" starting at 4pm. Having four Bots 10ers with my to work on the garden project, we decided we had strength in numbers and would venture out to check out the jazz. Everyone stared at us when we walked into the compound (read: large fenced yard reminiscent of a beer garden) and we made our way to the bar (aka one-room house with a bar and a few fridges). We ordered drinks (in Setswana) and went outside to listen to the DJ playing local music. Everyone was dancing around and sitting at tables talking among their friends. The occasional person would come over and introduce themselves to us and chat for a little while. It was cordial, comfortable, and really really nice (so unlike what we had been told).

I met a girl that was orphaned at six-years-old and who utilized services at my NGO as a child. We talked about what it's like to lose a parent, about her goal to visit another country some day, and her fears about the future. She is raising her young cousins who were orphaned. She's only 20. She has a dream of starting a small support group for youth to provide them with clothes and toiletries and help them come of age as an orphan. I am going to help her get started.

We met a handful of other people and then we got to watch traditional dance and listen to local music. It was a really fun time.

On our way home, we were walking down my earthen road when a truck suddenly went off the road and rolled into a ditch and onto its side. We ran over to see if the driver was okay and to help him get out of the vehicle. Within minutes there were four cars shining their headlights onto the rolled car and two dozen people all clambering to help. It didn't take long before the driver was out of the car, completely unharmed, and we started to work at getting the truck out of the ditch and back on the road. Everyone was calm as we brainstormed ways to move the truck, knowing that we could do it if we all worked together. And it did take all of us pulling and pushing and wrenching to get the truck back on the road but, about 45 minutes later, the man was heading home.

What inspired me most was how everyone came together, literally crawling out of the woodwork, to help. I have rarely seen such collectivism and community. It was a testament to the type of people the Batswana are. I felt pretty proud to be a part of this community last night. It's wonderful to be a part of something that is so unified, resourceful, and charitable.

A Botswana Birthday Party

In Botswana, birthdays are not a big deal. They come and go without much commotion, if they're even remembered at all. This is surprising because Botswana is all about community and family means a lot. This is also surprising to me because birthdays are so so so much fun! If you have spent much time around me then you realize that I could not sit idly by not celebrating birthdays as they come along... This was the case with my 20-year-old host brother's birthday.

When my host brother, Kesaobaka, told me that in his nearly two decades of life that he had never had a birthday party, I decided to throw him a celebration to remember! And celebrate we did!

Yesterday I hosted Kesaobaka's birthday party. I had invited a number of the other trainees to come over that he had become close with and I told him to invite some of his friends to join us. He didn't know what to expect and so his excitement was penetrable. For weeks, he kept coming over to me with big smiles and he looked like he was going to jump out of his skin with anticipation! I seriously wondered if he was going to make it until the party!

In preparation for the event, I had asked my mom to send birthday balloons (which came in my care package) and I made a big birthday sign with candles, balloons, and confetti to hang in the house. I also prepared a menu for the party and made a few trips back and forth to the local grocery store, Choppies. (Creating a menu is extra challenging in Botswana because a lot of the things we are used to finding at the store are not available here. It was an exciting challenge though and we had a lot of fun learning how to make everything from scratch!)

The party began with a few of my fellow trainees coming over to help me cook. We made veggie pizzas, quesadillas, guacamole, tortilla chips, sandwiches, fruit salad, American-style magwinya, and cake! Of course, we taste-tested during the cooking process and knew that we were on the right track! Delish! Cheese is a rarity in Botswana (despite all the cows here) so this was a special treat for all of us.

Once everything was ready, Kesaobaka, his friends, the rest of my host family, some relatives and their children, a bunch of visitors, and seven trainees joined us in the main house. After singing the "Happy Birthday" song, Kesaobaka made a speech where he thanked me for having a party in his honor and said he was eternally grateful for everyone showing up for him. It was soooo sweet. And then we all chowed down! (Note: my host mom is obsessed with guacamole now and wants me to teach her how to make it. You're welcome to the Bots 12 group or whomever gets my family as a host in the future!) Music blared and, under the commandment of my host mother ("Are you full? If you're full then you must dance!") started bustin' a move around the house! At the same time, the kids all started playing don't-let-the-balloon-hit-the-ground in the adjoining room! Laughter filled the entire house! My host brother was constantly thanking me and saying how he was so happy because he had never had a celebration dedicated to him before. It was amazing! I then gave my host brother a friendship bracelet that I made him as a birthday present that was half American flag colors and the other half the Botswana flag. He put it on immediately and gave me a big hug! More amazingness!

But nothing could have prepared me for later in the night... After all was settled down and I had finished cleaning up, my family gathered around the television to watch My Star (Botswana's version of American Idol). At a lull in the show, my host mom came over to me and said that she wanted to thank me for the day. She said that I had taught her a lot that day, mostly that it is possible to make a day special and memorable for someone even if you don't have a lot of money. She said that she never knew the importance of a day like this for someone before and that I shared that with her. She thanked me again and smiled at me a great big smile. I teared up. Wow. I was taken aback by it and truly awed. Compliments are not common in Botswana and I felt like this was the epitome. Here I was just wanting to do something nice for someone and have a little shindig and it turned into something so much more meaningful and powerful than that. It was truly a special day for all of us and I am so happy that I could have that experience.